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The thing about the Isle of Wight is that it's an island off a bigger one, and perhaps people tend to overlook some of its delights. One of these is undoubtedly the George Hotel, standing comfortably between the quay and the castle, and close enough to the ferry terminal. Dinner in the Georgian restaurant with its deep red panelled walls borders on the pleasantly theatrical.

Kevin Mangeolles took over the stoves in 1996 and has specialised in modern British cooking with a strong French twist, to great effect, ever since. Local rabbit, with its offal, appears in the form of a ballotine, coupled with thyme sweet potato, spinach and baby onions in a red wine reduction. Later a chestnut parfait with chocolate sauce and fromage blanc might well prove irresistible.

No children under 10 years.