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The steady increase in popularity of Thai cuisine in Britain, and elsewhere, is one of the more heartening indicators of the eating out scene. Over the years we have absorbed other national cuisines with relative ease, and most are here to stay. But there has always been the feeling that Thai is rather special, rather more shrouded in Eastern mystique than some and with a reputation for often being created and served by Thai ladies of great beauty and dexterity.

It is therefore even more of a pleasure to write about Thai Sunset in bustling and quietly prosperous Bushey, the sort of place where Thai cuisine thrives. David Krite and his Thai wife, Anotai, have been married 20 years, during which they have talked about setting up a restaurant, but life passes by and there are other things to be done. So they are now devoting their retirement to this long term dream, not the sort of occupation that most people think about for the second half of their lives.

Anotai works the magic in the kitchen, David looks after front of house, a combination that clearly works well. For many Thai cooking is still something of a mystery, so their six well constructed set menus, two of them vegetarian, are more than a little welcome.

The town of Bushey, Hertfordshire has been featured extensively in movies and television shows due to its proximity to a couple of film studios. Yet, despite all the glamour constantly making its presence felt there, it retains an old world charm that manifests itself in the form of The Horse and Chains. This modern British pub is housed in a building that dates back to the 17th century and has been recently refurbished and taken over by Tom Aspey of Dylan's restaurant.  

The Horse and Chains focuses on skilfully prepared simple meals that are fresh and seasonal and you can see the results when you order starters of smoked trout mousse with rye bread and lemon, or maybe a main course of sea bream with crispy potatoes, ratatouille vegetables and pepper sauce. Desserts include spiced crème brûlée, while the selection of draught beers, ales and wines proves confirms they do not skimp on quality.