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Built in the reign of Henry VIII the Who'd a thought it has a colourful history involving smugglers, His Majesty's Dragoons and more recently those who like a particular trend in food. The menu is filled with examples of mainly the more refined products of the sea, starting with smoked salmon and poached egg en brioche, finished with asparagus tips and caviar and progressing through ravioli and quail morels with a Madeira jus, to Grade A oysters from the Colchester Oyster Company, and finishing with superior caviar served traditionally with chive, sour cream, hard boiled egg and toast.

Understandably this cornucopia is well supported by fine champagne, starting with Krug at £95 a bottle down to the more humble brands at £22.50. Should something even more exclusive be required it is available at prices more or less guaranteed to induce, at the very least, weakness at the knees.

How refreshing to find somewhere of this bent in our democratic age, an outpost of luxury and indulgence with style.

Very country house in style with a most impressive candlelit dining room in the Marble Hall. Carte menu at £48.00, set-price around £32.00, with House wine at £16.00. Well worthy of the discerning trencherman is the cannon of saltmarsh lamb with kidney beignets, black pudding and English mustard sauce. Lovely location.