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As good a place as you'll find in the area before making your long-planned (or perhaps spontaneous even) visit to the nearby flagship NT garden property. Run by Hugh and Leonora Rankin, there is a fixed-price regime operating, no supplements and some very attractive choices. We had the salmon with mussel choucroute and parsley cream sauce followed by the prune and Armagnac fool and were delighted. The day was warm, the previous day's wedding had been arduous in the wrong sense and the beauties of Sissinghurst gardens beckoned, as did an excellent bottle of Chablis chosen from a sensible wine list.