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An attractive 1920's house with a restaurant that makes more than a bow to the past, though offering up to the minute cuisine, served with efficiency and good cheer. A starter of smoked duck salad with stripes of Parma ham makes a good setting off point, to be followed by a fresh Dover sole with marinated lamb's lettuce and caviar Hollandaise. Desserts are not such a strong point but it would be churlish to ignore a good-looking creme brulee, followed by quality coffee. The wine list offers in excess of fifty items with Vin de Pays from £10.75.