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Under the protection of the Long Man of Wilmington on his hillside above, Crossways amply lives up to its own description of 'a gastronomic oasis in the heart of the Cuckmere Valley.' Few, if any, would seek to challenge that.

There is a four-course, monthly-changing menu chasing the seasons, supported by an interesting wine list with, as one might expect, some English wines. House wine starts at £11.95.