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The Malmaison group of hotels has established throughout Britain a collection of centres of excellence where nothing but the best will do. As a concept alone this is exciting, but the reality is brilliant, so that at last there is a hotel group where uniformity of standards is of the same high calibre. Malmaison Reading follows the well-established Malmaison trend in establishing their hotels in buildings of interesting styles and location, and the erstwhile Great Western Rail Hotel has been transformed into a stunning boutique hotel offering a luxurious refuge. Inside, there's a dark, stylish interior, innovative design, unusual artwork and lots of hints to remind you of the building's history. 

The bedrooms are all that one would expect from a hotel that has genuine regard for its guests and is concerned with every aspect of their wellbeing. There are five stylish rail themed suites, while artwork inspired by the Great Western Railway can be seen on the walls. At the brasserie, the mood definitely veers towards comfort and elegance where the exposed walls and ceilings lend a rustic appeal and the beautiful glass wine cellar adds immensely to the style quotient.

Amidst elegant surroundings, with spotless gleaming glassware and shining cutlery, an essentially brasserie menu is offered, where lovers of seafood will be delighted to note that their particular needs are well heeded, starting with a delightful moules marinières.

Head Chef Andrew Holmes and his team bring to the table typical brasserie dishes such as treacle cured salmon and soft boiled quail egg served with toasted rye bread that have always been popular choices, and can be taken here as a starter or a main course. Monkfish with chorizo and butter beans rarely fails to please, and the same holds true for the pot roast chicken and sage dumplings.

An inspired choice amongst the main courses is the baked hazelnut and parmesan crusted cod with cockles and mussels while the beef bourguignon is another enticing option. Which leads us neatly to the - wait for it - Mal burger, a 250 gram burger made from ground beef tucked into a floured bap to join bacon and gruyere, served with homemade relish and some fries.

Over the years the number of outriders surrounding a good honest steak on the plate has grown to unacceptable dimensions. At Malmaison the thought and care is centred on the dry-aged bone rump and that's it - except for the chips. If you want all the rest go for the side dishes, but steak and chips on its own takes some beating. Vegetarians are well looked after - the pumpkin and gorgonzola filled gnocchi sounded appealing.

Heading the desserts is the sticky toffee pudding with butterscotch sauce, a triumph of timing and co-ordination, supported by other choices amongst which expect to find a chocolate pithivier with clotted cream. Their homemade ice creams and sorbets are dreamy while the renowned cheese trolley has a selection of British and French farmhouse cheeses served with an assortment of breads, biscuits and chutney.

A wine list that draws from all the major wine-growing areas is a symphony of its kind, clearly compiled by an enthusiast who knows his wines well enough not to disappear into a world of hyperbole when describing them.

Their Website is a wealth of information that will, I predict, only serve to increase your resolve to make Malmaison your next stop in Reading. It is worth noting that you can also make reservations Online on their Website.

There are very few settings for restaurants that can truly be described as unique; however, it certainly applies in the case of Haxted Mill, where their wonderful candlelit terrace overlooks the mill race and pond, ideal for dining al fresco in the summer. The restaurant is situated in the beautiful Eden Valley in the heart of the Kent countryside, where you can watch the sun go down over the fields, and sip on a glass of well-chilled premier cru Chablis. In winter, you can enjoy the warm comfort of their superbly beamed dining room and try some of their delicious modern European cuisine.

Haxted Mill has been running as an upmarket establishment with accolades from the AA guide for the past twenty-six years, but has now introduced fixed price menus for lunch and dinner as well as an à la carte, which reflects a more casual and relaxed style of eating, more in tune with today's trends of dining out.

The day starts with morning coffee and croissants baked in their kitchen.

At noon their full menu kicks in, including light lunch options such as a variety of salads from lobster, whole cracked crab or smoked haddock on spinach and mash served with chive sauce to a grilled sirloin steak, pepper sauce with chips or poached fillet of organic salmon, crushed potatoes and steamed leeks. Additionally, many of the starters would be suitable for a light lunch.

A little later on, as the sun starts to sink, their full menu is again on offer, including sautéed scallops, black pudding and sauce vierge; char-grilled whole fish, mixed salad with home made chips; roast rack of lamb, minted vegetables and new potatoes, and pan roasted skate wing, small prawns, capers and brown butter new potatoes and green beans. Baked glazed lemon tart and lemon sorbet, and raspberry semi-freddo contribute to making the dining experience one to remember.

The Haxted Mill Riverside Brasserie is the place to relax by the river whether you are hiking the Vanguard Way, walking your dog across the fields, celebrating with friends or simply having a quiet dinner for two.

A clever wine list demonstrates only too clearly that it is not necessary to spend on wine sums of money that could diminish your pleasure in the meal overall, yet still enjoy carefully chosen class wines from the world over that have character, with a sensible number of them by the glass.

However, Haxted Mill is much more than just a restaurant. They also host weddings, offer light lunches and have set menus on offer on certain days that represent excellent value. For further information view their very comprehensive Website.

Please note that they are closed from December 24th to April 1st.

The Wotton Hatch is an old coaching inn, which has been transformed into a spacious country pub and restaurant, with large open areas and numerous alcoves. The interiors have been tastefully done up using generous amounts of copper, suede, raw wood and leather, to create a thoroughly pleasant whole. The dining area can seat eighty-five with another forty on the patio in fine weather.

There is a lovely garden in which to enjoy summer. Knick knacks all around give the place a casual and relaxed feel. The food altar - an imposing central fireplace - is decorated with cured meats, cheeses and jars of olives. To set the right note of fashionable sociability there are sharing plates, Mediterranean mezze of hummus, roasted vegetables, fregola, tzatziki, feta, spinach and ricotta pâté with warm flatbreads, a box baked camembert with stiratta romagna and home made tomato jam, or garlic pizzette with caramelised onion and rocket.

Amongst the starters, there is freshly made soup; sardines on bruschetta with red onion, plum tomato and gremolata or gambas with rocket, garlic, aioli and rustic bread. Look, too, for scallops of the day.

The salads - sorry, that should read 'leaves' - offer crispy duck with mouli, hoisin, carrots, spring onions and plum sauce, for the seafood fiends some prawn, avocado, pecan, mango, watercress, bacon with orange and pomegranate vinaigrette.

These days no self-respecting gastropub can afford to be without its pizza range; expect to find a classic margherita of tomato, mozzarella, oregano and basil; piccante with pepperoni, chorizo, tomato and jalapeños or rustica with roasted Mediterranean vegetables, goats' cheese, cherry tomatoes and rocket.

Pastas include linguini with tiger prawns, crab, chorizo, chilli, tomato and white wine, or tagliatelle with slow cooked Bolognaise and parmesan. For the big event there is Indian spiced salmon fillet with wilted spinach and sweet potato with aubergine and mango chutney.

The calves liver with tray baked potatoes, red onion, bacon and sage panagrattato is popular, a sign of the times and improving taste in eating. The spit chicken with lemon, garlic, thyme and frites is worth trying too. For hearty eaters there is a good rib-eye steak with smoked paprika and tomato, butter, watercress and frites.

A wide range of supporting dishes includes Belgian frites and mayo, and cabbage, leeks and peas. For desserts choose between Eton mess or apple, blackcurrant crumble and vanilla custard. There is also a selection of cheeses to set the buffs alight.

The Wotton Hatch stocks a range of beers, champagne, award winning ales and offer a choice of continental pilsners. At the bar thirty or so people can comfortably seat themselves and service is cheerful, brisk and totally in keeping with the friendly nature of a good English gastropub. The Wotton Hatch is quite central to a lot of walks in the area and a great place for a mid walk pit stop.

More information, including full menus, is available on their Website . Please note that the E-Mail Contact is for enquiries only, not for bookings. 

As a name for a restaurant it is hardly likely that The Purple Goose will fail to attract attention, but it is for the quality of its quality classic cuisine that it is more likely to be remembered. Scott Ludlow, Head Chef and Proprietor of this friendly place, aims to offer the things that so many restaurants aspire to, such as locally sourced produce of high quality and a wine list that inspires and complements, and unlike some actually achieves the desired results.

Their mission statement (whatever happened to all those worthy and often totally unattainable essays into optimism?) is short and pithy: 'The Purple Goose Restaurant - you either love it or you haven't eaten there'. So let's examine that claim.

The notion of having a great list of dishes under each course is fast fading - partly because the credit crunch has brought a sense of reality to such matters - and six opening courses, say, gives not unreasonable scope. Soup of the day is a steady survivor and with imagination brought into play, is sound judgement. A grilled whole Brixham lemon sole with a caramelised shallot and parsley butter make regular appearances as does the twice baked crab and smoked salmon soufflé with prawn velouté.

The Purple Goose is big on its chargrill, offering a range of weights from sirloin, ribeye and prime fillet. A choice of three sauces will satisfy most though I have the distinct feeling that another personal favourite might not be refused - just ask. The meat is sourced from the local butcher and is matured for a minimum of three weeks. And should you aspire to a T-bone or some other weight of steak, again do ask.

Seven main courses may include slow braised shoulder of lamb stuffed with herbs and fruit, confit garlic and blue cheese sauce, pan-roasted cod in aromatic spices, or corn-fed chicken breast wrapped in Parma ham.

The habit of passing up on a dessert course could be quite distressing, and often so symbolic that it hardly survives the first 'oh, go on'. In any case a list of seven mouth watering options is not the easiest of temptations to avoid, particularly when it is supplemented by a cheese trolley to die for. Eton mess, vanilla pod Chantilly cream, or seasonal fruit and spring berry coulis contains all the delights you might expect to find, and the duo of chocolate terrine with frozen aerated strawberry milk bottle could well prove to be the undoing of all your good intentions.

Lunch is served Wednesday to Saturday from an imaginative 2 or 3 course menu. The wine list at The Purple Goose is an example of its kind in that there are some 36 by the glass, making for really interesting drinking.

The Purple Room is an excellent haven for a party of up to 6 who want somewhere quiet and private to enjoy lunch or dinner. With its own private lounge, it is very affordable. Meanwhile the special events of the year are observed with élan.

Their Website provides further information and updates on menus for those wanting to plan in advance.

The Marchmont Arms is a warm and welcoming country inn and restaurant, located just north of Hemel Hempstead in Piccotts End. The white building that houses the 18th century pub was a private residence for over two centuries before being skilfully transformed into a modern dining destination.

The interiors are furnished with teak tables, comfortable leather couches, large mirrors and an exciting blend of old and new knick knacks. The large open log fire adds to the warm and pleasant atmosphere. The Marchmont Arms bar stocks different beers on tap ranging from continental lagers to European speciality beers as well as trusted ales. The wine list has an even balance of New and Old World wines with a variety of styles from which to choose.
 
The Marchmont Arms's menu is contemporary with many tempting homely dishes available, and to set the right note of fashionable sociability there are sharing plates, antipasti of Italian meats, dolcelatte, marinated vegetables and warm stone-baked flatbreads, or Mediterranean mezze of hummus, roasted vegetables, fregola, tzatziki, feta, spinach and ricotta pâté with flatbreads.

Amongst the appetisers look for freshly made soup; smoked salmon, pomegranate molasses, fennel and micro herb salad, or gambas with rocket, garlic aioli and rustic bread. Look, too, for scallops of the day. The salads offer chargrilled chicken, courgette, fennel, apple, asparagus, hazelnut and balsamic dressing, and the seafood fiends find pleasure in some prawn and avocado with pecans, mango, bacon, orange and pomegranate vinaigrette.

These days no self-respecting gastropub can afford to be without its pizza range; expect to find a classic margherita of cherry tomatoes, mozzarella, pomodoro and basil, rustica with roasted Mediterranean vegetables, goats' cheese and cherry tomatoes or the piccante with pepperoni, chorizo, tomato and jalapeños.

Pastas include linguini with tiger prawns, crab, chorizo, chilli, tomato and white wine or tagliatelle with slow cooked Bolognaise and parmesan. For the big event there is roast rump of lamb with sauce soubise, asparagus, pancetta, button onions and baby potatoes. Battered haddock with frites, tartare sauce and minted mushy peas is popular, a sign of the times and improving taste in eating. The salmon with crab and chorizo fishcakes, roasted sweet corn and cherry tomato salsa is worth trying too. For hearty eaters there are rib-eye and fillet steaks or spit chicken with lemon, garlic, thyme and frites.

A wide range of supporting dishes includes green salad, and cabbage, leeks and peas. For desserts choose between an apple, blackcurrant crumble and vanilla custard and, sticky toffee pudding with vanilla ice cream. The selection of cheeses is likely to set the buffs alight.

Their excellent Website will keep you up to date on any changes. Please note that the E-Mail Contact is for enquiries only, not for bookings.

Mercifully, there are still what might be termed 'real' pubs around lending their charms and restorative powers to the rural British. True it is that WiFi has arrived at The Black Horse in a quiet, hidden, Buckinghamshire conservation village but this is no hindrance to the conduct of sociability in this quaint place so incredibly near to the heart of London.

Workmen building the Church of St James next door were billeted in the warren of rooms which still look much the same as they did then, except that the furnishings have moved up market with rich fabrics, antique furniture and pictures. The food is described as 'British Colonial' (BC) and a well-travelled wine list sits comfortably alongside those who prefer hand-pulled British beers. BC apparently includes honey and mustard glazed 'Stockings Farm' ham with fat chips, fried duck egg and pineapple chutney, or cider braised pork belly with shallot tatin and broad bean jus.

Whilst there are no great proclamations about seasonal food even the briefest of glimpses confirms such treats as pan-fried sea trout fillet on classic niçoise salad, or deep-fried Whiting goujons with crushed cumin and garlic peas and spiced 'Black Horse' ketchup, or a classic English lamb loin chops with marinated feta, baby gem, broad bean and pea salad. In a world where some believe it difficult to make chicken sound attractive any longer, at the Black Horse they offer corn-fed chicken schnitzel with harissa spiced aubergines, crisp sweet potato and soured cream, which seems to call the shots well enough.

Somebody who cares an awful lot about vegetables go out of their way to encourage interest in that department; try the baked goats' cheese with beetroot, oven-dried tomatoes and pistachio dressing or the wild mushroom, Barkham blue and rocket puff pastry turnover with heirloom tomato salad.

What people find so very tempting about the puddings here is the wines that go with them. A list of around 12 includes Château Laville Sauternes '05, and from Italy a Vin Santo di Capezzana Riserva '02, described as 'the wine of the saints'. But this is jumping the gun and thoughts of warm caramelised pineapple tarte tatin with cardamon ripple mascarpone, or steamed chocolate sponge with butterscotch syrup and clotted cream ice cream provide that final impetus.

A happy cheerful and experienced staff are always on hand to provide service that needs no prompting and will brighten the dullest day.

A convincing number of wines by the glass means that the art of pouring the right wine to go with your meal can be well pursued here, and advice is always on hand if required. Few bottles stray over the £20 boundary.

A visit to their Website will take care of matters such as changing menus or arrangements for special occasions.

Restaurant Manager Bernardo takes great delight in presenting a wide ranging menu of traditional Italian cooking in the rustic surroundings of a 16th century farmhouse, itself built from the remaining timbers of a 16th century trading ship. Seldom can there have been such a pleasing combination of skills, well summed by David Billington in Hello magazine, "La Capanna must be the prettiest interior of any restaurant I have ever dined in".

To make the experience even more pleasing there is a choice of four places in which to eat, each with its own appeal. First the Dining Room, with its high ceiling and an art collection of note, then the Conservatory which has a slightly more modern look and is full of natural light.

Thirdly you have the Minstrel Gallery, which sits above the main dining area, and is perfect for a private family engagement. Finally you have the Italian Garden, perfect for those warm summer evenings with its wonderful array of wild life calling the garden 'home' and the beautiful vine nestling in the corner, takes you back to a Tuscan home.

The kitchen team works on three main menus, the set lunch menu, the Sunday lunch and the à la carte, described here. Start with antipasto La Capanna which is a selection of seafood specialities, or seared scallops with pickled beetroot and a sweetcorn buerre noisette.

Seasonal house specialities include seafood salad with sun blushed tomatoes, chilli, garlic and olive oil, and English asparagus wrapped in Parma ham and served with Parmesan cheese. The imaginative pasta selection includes tiger prawn spaghettini chilli garlic, and confit duck ravioli with a Jerusalem artichoke velouté.

Like so many Italian restaurants the emphasis on fish is marked and a grilled Dover sole arrives with seasonal vegetables and roasted garlic potatoes, while filet of poached halibut is accompanied by olive oil, withered spinach, caviar and beurre blanc. Fillet of beef with fresh sauté spinach and gratin potato, or rack of lamb with pea purée, baby carrots, fondant potato and a rosemary and balsamic jus says it for the carnivores.

The selection of desserts follow the Italian fashion with richness and extravagance that rounds the occasion off in style that leaves your enjoyment in a state of perfection. Choose from a selection which includes tiramisu with Tia Maria, blueberry cheesecake with honeycomb and blueberry sorbet or dark chocolate fondant with raspberries. There is also a fine board of Italian cheeses served with grapes, wheat crackers and walnut and raisin bread.

The wine list is designed to suit all pockets with a fine array of Italian regional wines, complimented by an international range of quality bins professionally collected together.

Musical evenings of a very high standard are frequent occurrences at La Capannna, usually taking the form of an evening of sumptuous food and quality entertainment.

For further details, do consult their comprehensive Website.

The Derby Arms is situated on the Epsom Downs, far away from the hustle and bustle of the busy one-way system, offering a lovely view of London and the well-known racecourse that hosts the famous Derby Race. A lot of thought and effort has gone into the complete redesign, creating an interior with log fires and steaming hot apple cider in the cold months, offset by beautifully landscaped decking for al fresco dining.
 
The pub is more like a modern interpretation of a traditional English pub. All the traditional pub classics such as spit chicken with lemon, garlic, thyme and chips, and rib eye steaks are there and a modern menu comprising of calves liver with tray baked potatoes, red onion, bacon and sage panagrattato has joined them. To set the right note of fashionable sociability there are sharing plates, antipasti of Italian meats with dolcelatte, stuffed peppers, marinated vegetables and warm stone-baked flatbreads or Mediterranean mezze of hummus, roasted vegetables with fregola, tzatziki, feta, spinach and ricotta pâté with warm flatbreads.

Amongst the appetisers is freshly made soup; lamb koftas, mint yoghurt, kohlrabi, cumin and carrot salad, or gambas with garlic, rocket, aioli and rustic bread. Look, too, for scallops of the day. The salads - sorry, that should read 'leaves' - offer crispy duck, mouli, carrots, hoisin, spring onions, watercress and plum sauce, and for the seafood fiends some prawn, avocado, pecans, mango, bacon, orange and pomegranate vinaigrette is received with enthusiasm.

These days no self-respecting gastropub can afford to be without its pizza range; expect to find a classic margherita of pomodoro, mozzarella, oregano and basil, the rustica with roasted Mediterranean vegetables, goats' cheese and cherry tomatoes, or the piccante with pepperoni, chorizo, tomato and jalapeños.

The fish dishes for hearty eaters are well worth trying and choices include smoked haddock fishcakes with curry Hollandaise, mango, tomato, coriander and red onion salad, and freshly battered haddock with tartare sauce, minted mushy peas and chips. For the big event there is always a roast rump of lamb with sauce soubise, asparagus, pancetta, button onions and baby potatoes. The blackened cod fillet with egg noodles, pak choi, mango and chilli salsa is popular, a sign of the times and improving taste in eating. Pork Milanese with sage, lemon and breadcrumbs, tomato, rocket and red onion and salad baby potatoes is a popular choice too.

Their wine list of Old World classics and New World upstarts ensures there is plenty of choice for anyone. The beers are taken very seriously and so are the award winning cask ales - they have a range of continental lagers and speciality beers.

A wide range of supporting dishes includes Belgium chips and mayo. For desserts choose between an apple, blackcurrant crumble and vanilla custard and, sticky toffee pudding with vanilla ice cream. There is also a selection of cheeses to set the buffs alight.

More information, including full menus, is available on their Website. Please note that the E-Mail Contact is for enquiries only, not for bookings.

The Royal Saracens Head, an eighteenth century free house, is situated in the attractive town of Beaconsfield and offers its customers a comfortable experience combined with warm hospitality. The original site is believed to have been a tavern as far back as the 12th century and was reputed to be a regular haunt of Richard I. The results of refurbishment are clearly visible in its trendy ambience - stripped wooden artefacts, large mirrors and stylish lighting.

The menu is simple but up-to-the-minute with lots of comfort appeal and offers homely dishes like pizza, steaks and pasta as well as ones with more contemporary, global touches, all delivered by friendly and cheerful staff. Their wine list contains well known favourites alongside more unusual numbers from around the world.

To set the right note of fashionable sociability there are sharing plates, garlic pizzette, caramelised onion and rocket, a box baked camembert with stiratta romagna and home made tomato jam.

Amongst the starters, there is freshly made soup, sardines on bruschetta with red onion, plum tomato and gremolata or water melon with prosciutto ham and feta with chilli ice cream. Look, too, for scallops of the day. The salads - sorry, that should read 'leaves' - offer crispy duck with mouli, hoisin, carrots, spring onions and plum sauce, for the seafood fiends some prawn, avocado, pecan, mango, watercress, bacon with orange and pomegranate vinaigrette.

These days no self-respecting gastropub can afford to be without its pizza range; expect to find a classic margherita of tomato, mozzarella, oregano and basil, piccante with pepperoni, chorizo, tomato and jalapeños or the rustica of roasted Mediterranean vegetables, goats' cheese, cherry tomatoes and rocket.

Pastas include linguini with tiger prawns, crab, chorizo, chilli, tomato and white wine, or strozzapreti of fresh tomato, goats' cheese, spinach, pine nuts and raisins. For the big event there is always Indian spiced salmon fillet with wilted spinach and sweet potato with aubergine and mango chutney.

The roast rump of lamb with sauce soubise, asparagus, pancetta, button onions and baby potatoes is popular, a sign of the times and improving taste in eating. There is a lovely spit chicken with lemon, garlic, thyme and frites, as well as calves liver, tray baked potatoes, red onion and bacon with sage panagrattato.

A wide range of supporting dishes includes green salad, Belgian frites and mayo, and cabbage, leeks and peas. For desserts choose between Eton mess or apple, blackcurrant crumble and vanilla custard. There is also a selection of cheeses to set the buffs alight.

More information, including full menus, is available on their Website. Please note that the E-Mail Contact is for enquiries only, not for bookings.

he first Browns opened at Brighton in 1973 with one simple guiding belief, that classic food, well delivered in a stylish environment, would be a recipe for success. The only thing that has changed since then is the number of Browns, now running at fourteen, of which six are in London, all prospering with the same theme.

Some of their buildings are particularly legendary in style, sometimes listed and always interesting. The premises at Edinburgh are located in George Street, the street that runs parallel with Princes Street and is, in a Sassenach view, far more Scottish.

The main menu, available throughout the day, starts with appetisers, designed for sharing, with antipasti of Italian meat, vegetarian or seafood. Try also the flatbreads with a range of interesting toppings. In amongst the thirteen starters expect to come across smoked duck, crisp noodle and cashew nut salad with red peppers, tumeric cauliflower, spring onions and a sherry vinaigrette. The fish and salad choices include fish and chips tempura battered cod with minted mushy peas and tartar sauce and seared beef fillet salad with chilli, garlic, soy and spring onions.

The same theme of comfortable food, well-cooked and presented, continues throughout the mains course with roast chicken breast in sour dough bread with baby spinach, tomato and mayonnaise, served with seasoned chips, and steak frites 6oz prime sirloin, served with a lemon, parsley and peppercorn butter.

Desserts include some indulgent Browns cheesecake with a selection of baked vanilla, chocolate, lemon, strawberry, banoffee or rum and raisin. By the way their breakfast and brunch menu is just one of the best as is the lunch and early menu. Little ones have their own dedicated menu where they can choose between tomato penne pasta and smoked fishcake with a hollandaise sauce and green salad.

The wine list is masterful and not over long, sometimes a great relief to those who find it difficult to navigate their way through a lengthier list, however interesting. Many bottles are available by the glass and helpfully each group of wines is classified under headings such as white, red and rose with house recommendations, New and Old World wines under them.

Browns in Edinburgh are well able to deal with groups, and have special menus to look after their particular interests. Click on their excellent Website for further details and menu changes.