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A wonderful Welsh medley of a hotel, former chapel and bags of atmosphere of that uniquely Welsh variety; all combining to make this one of the best of its kind in Carmarthenshire, even though the competition is not that extensive. The place is constantly buzzing, locals and tourists mingling merrily, and the food is notable.

Bar meals, lunches and tasty bites are generally available throughout the day; dinner is served in the Bistro from 6.30 to 9.30 pm. Starters range from marinated olives for those who require only a titillation of the taste-buds to lemon and garlic pan fried King prawns for those seeking a more sturdy foundation.

Main courses are supplied from a list of staple favourites such as chicken breast wrapped in bacon and the local Llanboidy cheese with a mild Dijon mustard cream, or a chargrilled ham steak with a rich cranberry, orange and port gravy. Speciality dishes range from topside of Welsh lamb filled with forcemeat and apricots in a white wine and shallot sauce, to a panfried tuna steak with a seafood medley in a lime zest butter, well supported by fish dishes at the whim of the markets.

Puddings represent a medley of indulgence and should definitely be taken into account during the earlier courses. A white chocolate croissant butter pudding with custard (not of the variety wished upon you at school) sets the tone. The French apple tart on sticky toffee sauce makes few concessions, but for sheer refreshment head for the brandy snap basket filled with lemon mousse and raspberries.

A nifty wine list copes well with the opportunities presented by the menu; service is friendly without being over-attentive.

I was always under the impression that stern Welsh religion, as practised in many a Salem chapel, and angels, did not make theological harmony, but I could be wrong. Certainly the Angel Inn in Salem ministers to the needs not only of the village of that name but an also an ever increasing flock from further afield, fired up by the simple but judiciously selected lunches.

However, these are but a prelude to the far more elaborate meals served in the evenings. Welsh ingredients feature prominently and dinner might consist of a pine kernel soufflé, medallions of the local beef in a tarragon rarebit crust with cannelloni beans and chorizo, followed by local strawberries with pannacotta. Service is friendly and efficient.

The wine list is worthy of the menu, drawn from a wide spread and at prices which make comfortable reading, with house wine from £11.