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The Angel Hotel in Abergavenny is a testament to modernity, unequivocally paired with tradition, in this bustling market town. What was once a former Georgian coaching inn is now an elegant and stately triple AA starred hotel offering all the comforts that you expect in its thirty-two well furnished rooms. The restaurant is another discerning factor there and has received an AA Rosette for its sumptuous fare.

You could start with the Mediterranean fish and shellfish soup with croûtes, rouille and cheese or maybe the seared squid with shallots, garlic, chilli oil and coriander. For the main course, the roast rump of Welsh lamb, braised green beans and potato gratin is fulfilling, and the frozen hazelnut parfait, with tuiles and chocolate sauce is an enticing way to end. The bar is warm and welcoming and offers a choice of excellent wines, champagnes and cocktails to complement your meal.

With a shared passion for good food and warm service it was only natural for Simon and Kate King to open 1861 Restaurant and the rest, as they say, is history. Yes, there is history in evidence everywhere, for one the building, dating back to 1861, resembles a Victorian station and is surrounded by a white picket fence, and inside is simply decorated with wooden beams, whitewashed walls and dark-wood tables.

Each dish on the menu is a paean to the supplier and you are informed that lamb arrives from Park Farm, Llantillio Crossenny, free-range duck from Madgetts Farm, Chepstow and some vegetables from Kate's father's garden too! Dishes are well judged for balance of flavours and textures, and this is true of the amuse-bouche of tomato and chive jelly as well as the pressed pork terrine, fillet of sea bass in a champagne cream, and hot chocolate soufflé with Bailey's ice cream.

The jolly bubbles of a J M Gremillet N V Brut selection are undeniably the highlight in 1861's concise wine list.

Located on the gateway to Wales in the valleys of the Usk and the Wye this handsome house offers a menu which ranges the culinary spectrum and could include white onion and Guinness soup, followed by seared halibut with a herb crust and a light mussel jus tinged with Noilly Prat. To round off the meal a pear William and Armagnac bavarois with a fruit Feuillentine and Mirabelle. The menu changes daily. There is a well travelled wine list with a selection of house wines at £16.

Junction 28 is a tastefully decorated, converted railway station, with the lower part of the restaurant decked out to mimic an old-fashioned railway carriage. Given the current difficulty in finding a train at all, let alone one that actually welcomes passengers aboard, it is not altogether surprising that there is nearly always a scramble to find a seat on this elegant Pullman coach with its anchor firmly down, as you approach the station.

The menu reflects the modern British approach with some very imaginative dishes as it sets no real boundaries as it includes influences from around the world. Chinese chicken soup with dim sum and ginger, Risotto of spring vegetables and Italian cured ham with parmesan ice cream, terrine of rabbit with caramelised shallots and shitake mushrooms are all examples of starters.

Main courses include a brace of quails with caramelised pear and potato galette, locally smoked salmon on a creamed horseradish infusion with watercress pannacotta, ravioli of wild mushrooms with tender asparagus and chervil butter sauce. Moving away from the a la carte, which is always available, you would find a set menu with 6 or 7 choices on each course; this is prepared to the same standards whilst being priced from £16.25 for 3 courses in the evening and £13.95 for 3 courses at lunchtime.

Railway catering in general might take a leaf or two from Junction 28, particularly when it comes to the wine list, some eighty strong, with house wine at £13.50 and the main list very affordable. Perhaps there is something to be said for keeping your train immobile after all.

No wonder that this extremely popular and busy restaurant just recently won the South Wales Argus restaurant of the year, has 1 Rosette from the AA and is included in The Good Food Guide.