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A comfortable old inn in the bookshop-lined town of Hay on Wye, where even the intellect has to be fed and where better than the Old Black Lion? An earlier visitor of note, Oliver Cromwell, is believed to have stayed here whilst the lads laid siege to Hay Castle.

Considering how many hostelries OC is alleged to have honoured with his presence it is surprising he did not have a secondary career as a restaurant critic. However, it seems a fair bet he would approved of the Old Black Bull, indeed he might even have put the word round that there was no hurry to capture the castle.

Local produce and ingredients, some of them organic, are eagerly sought after and include seafood from Cornwall and vegetables and herbs from the hotel's own garden. Wild boar is a not unknown dish. An extensive wine list completes the picture of a place that knows how to charm its customers off the streets.

The Swan brings a level of comfort in style to Hay on Wye which, as the town expands in its role of the biggest second hand bookshop in the world, is particularly welcome.

The Cygnet Restaurant is the place to be and with a wide and varied menu from which to choose you'll need to concentrate. For a starter choices could be from a salmon mousse wrapped in smoked salmon and dressed with lemon and cucumber, the Japanese style calamari in tempura batter with a Teriyaki dip or a leek and Cheddar soufflé with straw potatoes and salad.

Mains are equally diverse and could include a baked red gurnard served with sautéed red pepper and a fresh herb and lemon sauce, or roast rack of Welsh lamb with a herb crust aboard a redcurrant, garlic and summer mint sauce. Forget not the panfried ostrich steak served with game chips and served with a Burgundy and mushroom jus.

Service is efficient and friendly. There is no way that an hotel restaurant fielding this sort of menu is going to let itself down on the wine list and you will find a varied and rewarding array of wine awaiting your judgement.

Kilvert's is one of those comfortable and homely hotels that one associates with Middle England, historic but not lacking in convenience. In the centre of the town it is handy for the bookshops and a welcome sight to many of the walkers who pass through.

The Garden Restaurant offers well-prepared food in civilised but not overwhelming surroundings. A typical pair of starters might include crispy duck spring rolls on a bed of noodles and plum sauce or excellent soup of the day served with warm crusty bread. The spinach and mushroom roulade filled with cream cheese and served on a bed of red onion and sweet pepper marmalade would suit vegetarians and others alike, but others may prefer the local leg of lamb steaks marinated in orange, ginger and spring onion.

A decent wine list would accommodate most tastes and the house wine at £10 a bottle, or £2.50 for a large glass represents good value.