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In England there is a tendency, never more pronounced than in Border counties presumably still smarting from the past excesses of Welsh marauders, to hold a measure of disregard for those who grow the leek, particularly their culinary abilities. This is something I have never gone along with and if supportive evidence was required it is to be found at Carlton Riverside, as it was AA Wales Restaurant of the Year 2007/2008.

After being struck by the exterior colour of the restaurant, a fetching shade of blue, the eager diner is confronted with an interesting a la carte. A typical meal could consist of a Thai seafood salad with crayfish and prawns in a lime and ginger vinaigrette.

It would hardly be Wales without fillet of Welsh black beef, pan-seared and topped with tapenade, accompanied by buttered spinach and a herbed polenta cake, followed by a warm chocolate fondant with autumn berries positively steeped in brandy.

Whilst this may sound daunting to some the overall effect, such is the creation of the dishes, is pleasing and does not depress the palate. A worthy wine list is supportive of this beacon of good food.

The decline and rise of the British country house reflects in some ways the changing social patterns that have developed in these sceptred isles over the last few decades. As the desire to shake off urban nastiness grows, people look to the outstanding countryside around them, with a shrug buy some good waterproof clothing and set off to enjoy their own heritage.

Lasswade was built in 1904, the start of the Edwardian heyday, and the new wave, said to be Victorians who could chill out, set about doing just that. The house is handsome, spacious and elegant and commands vast views across mid Wales, where the red kites circle. Edwardians had good heads for entertaining and at Lasswade that virtue has been carried forward into the next century by its owners, Roger and Emma Stevens who regard their customers as house guests who should be cosseted.

Their success in so doing is reflected in numerous awards, including UK Winners for the 'Sustain Food Challenge', featured in the Good Food Guide from 2004 and the Hotel and Michelin Guide, a 2nd AA rosette for fine dining, and an upgrade to 4 star guest accommodation. They have also earned many awards for their efforts in the Environmentally friendly movement.

Roger Stevens is to be found leading the brigade in the kitchens. A three course dinner will in all probability have had its genesis through a slow cooking process before being served in an unhurried and relaxed fashion to people who wish to dine in a laid back style without making any concessions away from the smart/casual dress code.