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The splendidly located hotel in Mid Wales was built to accommodate all those concerned in the construction of the reservoir, now indistinguishable as such, in 1881. The views are spectacular, and inside the hotel the décor and furnishings are those of a very comfortable country house. Liverpool's city fathers, for whom the water supply was intended, in their wisdom decided to purchase 24,000 surrounding acres to ensure purity of the supply, so the sporting opportunities are mind-blowing with shooting, fishing, bird-watching and walking all available.

In the AA Rosette winning restaurant, the emphasis all on the gloriously fresh local produce, organic lamb reared on the estate, locally shot game and freshly caught fish from nearby Pwllhelli. The cooking style is contemporary but the portions are hearty and aimed to satisfy. Expect to find trio of lamb on the menu, with confit of shoulder, pink lamb cutlet, and baby shepherd pie. Even the breakfast marmalade is made by the chef.

This historic hotel, formerly a coaching inn, is built on the site of the former much older castle, the remains of which are alongside the hotel.

A bistro type menu with wide choices is on offer throughout the day in the bar and restaurant. In the evenings the restaurant has a more formal menu which could include a homemade soup of the day, a venison terrine served with an apple and whiskey salad and a redcurrant, heather and honey dressing or a salad of salmon and smoky bacon served with a dill and mustard dressing.

Amongst the main courses pan fried breast of duck served with a mango and mint sauce might compete with a steamed chicken supreme served on a bed of broccoli and accompanied by a red wine and Stilton sauce. A modest wine list offers sufficient choice at prices that will not cause alarm, with house wine at £9.95.

The decline and rise of the British country house reflects in some ways the changing social patterns that have developed in these sceptred isles over the last few decades. As the desire to shake off urban nastiness grows, people look to the outstanding countryside around them, with a shrug buy some good waterproof clothing and set off to enjoy their own heritage.

Lasswade was built in 1904, the start of the Edwardian heyday, and the new wave, said to be Victorians who could chill out, set about doing just that. The house is handsome, spacious and elegant and commands vast views across mid Wales, where the red kites circle. Edwardians had good heads for entertaining and at Lasswade that virtue has been carried forward into the next century by its owners, Roger and Emma Stevens who regard their customers as house guests who should be cosseted.

Their success in so doing is reflected in numerous awards, including UK Winners for the 'Sustain Food Challenge', featured in the Good Food Guide from 2004 and the Hotel and Michelin Guide, a 2nd AA rosette for fine dining, and an upgrade to 4 star guest accommodation. They have also earned many awards for their efforts in the Environmentally friendly movement.

Roger Stevens is to be found leading the brigade in the kitchens. A three course dinner will in all probability have had its genesis through a slow cooking process before being served in an unhurried and relaxed fashion to people who wish to dine in a laid back style without making any concessions away from the smart/casual dress code.

Formerly a traditional country inn, Talkhouse is now converted into a well-equipped, modern restaurant with rooms, though still retaining its charm and more than a hint of an historic past. The menu is exciting. Start with creamy sweet potato and butternut soup with a light herb foam and Gruyere croutons or seared scallops with confit tomatoes and a smooth lemon dressing before going on to cumin-roasted salmon with a spiced tomato sauce and saffron potatoes or loin of welsh lamb on a bed of braised lentils with roasted new potatoes and a tomato scented lamb jus. To finish, well how does warm chocolate mousse with wild lime and coconut ice cream or feuillete of strawberries with grand marnier cream and yogurt sorbet sound; they also have a wonderful selection of native and French cheeses? There is also a simpler bistro menu at lunchtime. The wine list continues to expand, with plenty of choice under £20, and house wine at £12.00. About eleven wines are available by the glass.

No children under 14 years at dinner.