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The very epitome of the grand Victorian hotel built to dominate the resort which it served and furnished accordingly. However, the dining room and what it serves has well and truly thrown off the shackles and offers well produced and imaginative European dishes as well as the more traditional.

Nor are the cholestorol-loaded delights of Cornwall overlooked and some very stern discipline would be necessary here in the event of a protracted stay. A well-stocked cellar has survived the years and there is house wine at £15.

Located in the tiny Cornish village of Polkerris Rashleigh Inn is a winning blend of history and modern comfort, tucked away on the east side of St. Austell Bay between Par and Fowey. What was once a lifeboat station in the late 19th century was transformed to a pub in the 1950s.  The inn was refurbished in 2001 and provides a cosy atmosphere and wonderful food for tourists and locals alike.

The menu changes frequently and local ingredients are well used, like the Cornish lamb which is served as a succulent steak along with port and redcurrant glaze. Locally caught fresh scallops in garlic butter and pork medallions cooked in West Country cider and cream are some of the other delights on offer. The dessert menu has a rich choice with walnut and ginger tart, Sicilian orange cake, chocolate fudge cake and fresh fruit flan.

After paying a visit to the nearby tourist attractions, visitors at Rashleigh Inn can take in views of the sunset during summer or enjoy a snug conversation around the log fire at wintertime. This along with a fine meal is a wonderful way to spend an evening.

In a part of the world where superlative views are rather taken for granted, Fowey Hall is in a class of its own. Completed in 1899 the house was - and remains - outstandingly luxurious, and with cross-channel views that are mind-blowing. The handsome wood-panelled dining area and then the light conservatory room is a good place for a quiet meal, or head outside to the terrace area, a tranquil retreat complete with great vistas.

As with everything else at Fowey Hall the seafood is superlative; think Fowey River mussels in a carrot and ginger broth, and grilled Cornish mackerel with red lentils and a sweet curry sauce. Caramelised apple bavarois and crispy beignets with griottine cherries demonstrate the skills of the pastry chef.

The quintessential Cornish afternoon tea shouldn't be missed at Fowey Hall with homemade scones, cakes and jams, while the cosy lounges are really inviting to curl up with a cup of tea, with fires roaring at winter or the sun pouring through the large Edwardian manor windows.

Set in a converted customs house, on the quay, there are now much better things astir in the premises. Martin and Caroline Billingsley have for over twenty years delighted a discerning public with their modern seafood cuisine.

Those who wish for their meat are by no means neglected but make no mistake about it this is primarily a seafood restaurant.

The wine list rises to the occasion and there is a house selection of French wines from £9.75.

Tiffins Bistro has evolved over the past four years from a well-loved but run-down delicatessen into a two floor, sixty seater bistro and bar. The food is renowed in the area for its freshness and quality using as much local seafood, meat and other produce as possible. The downstairs floor is lively, atmospheric and a good people watching place with a slightly French feel - while upstairs is a bit more romantic and feels cut off from the outside world.

Decorated with black and white photos of the local area, blackboards showing the days specials, and numerous French glass and pottery pieces, it is a great spot to sit and while away the day over a bowl of fresh Fowey River mussels, a local crab baguette or a Cornish steak and chips. In the evening, when the candles are lit and the lights dimmed, it is a pleasant choice to eat, listening to blues music playing, and enjoying the great food and wine.

Nathan Outlaw is in danger of being dubbed as the wandering boy of Cornwall. But if he was it would be out of affection and admiration for his cooking skills that earned him a very rapid Michelin at Black Pig and St Evan, and now transferred to a new scenic setting at Fowey.

The new menu is business-like and convincingly brief. Maximum use is being made of the superbly fresh produce available in this sea-locked peninsula, with five dishes to each course, starting with cured salmon, marinated beetroot, horseradish and dill, a new take on an old Outlaw favourite, or whisky-soaked salmon and a beetroot risotto.

Indeed progress through the menu suggests that Nathan is going through a pickling period with a main course of sea bass, pickled fennel and vanilla gnocchi, though my money would go on the mutton served with garlic potato, rosemary and anchovy. Mutton in general is one of the most under rated meats on offer in this country, though this dish would not ignore lamb in season.

A rhubarb sponge with stem ginger ice cream here is a wonderful experience, and pickles gain another entry with the walnuts that accompany the artisan cheeses and raisin bread.

It is abundantly clear that the sheer genius of the man has been not one wit impaired by his travels - quite the reverse - and we wish 28-year-old Nathan and his team a long and productive stay at their new home.

In an area which is not always normally known for its taste in matters of restaurants and eating provision in general, Q Restaurant stands out like a shining light. With decoration and construction that is a refreshing change from the tackier versions of olde worlde, the décor has set standards that are on a par with the food, which is fast gaining an enviable reputation on a wide basis. The Good Food Guide, 2 AA Rosettes and a Remy Martin Award are all there to support this view.

Within a stunning waterside location looking out over the Fowey Estuary, Head Chef Benn Bass offers a menu that calls upon the richness of local produce combined with the skill of a fine team in the kitchens.

Dinner could start with duck rillette, a coarse pate served with sourdough and grape chutney, or ravioli of Cornish crab with sautéed spinach and tarragon bisque. A main course of pithivier is made with celeriac, roast onion and garlic, with a white bean puree, but do not lightly ignore the bourguignon of Cornish beef, done with smoked bacon, mushrooms and puree potatoes.

An outstandingly good brunch menu offers Big Bites or Light ones - all are equally mouth watering. Desserts include crème brulee, white chocolate mousse or some of the local ice cream, an item at which the Cornish are particularly good. Must be the Devonshire cream . . . . . .

The Guardian said "the menu is a delicious blend of seafood, local produce and mediterranean flavours".