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Restaurants on islands well clear of mainland Britain pose special problems, but The Tean on St Mary's in the Scillies, is a special case, not least because of its aim to become the first recipient of a Michelin star ever to find its way to this wonderful archipelago, 28 miles south west of Land's End.

If you include south-west England the Scilly Isles there is wonderful access to local produce and chef Kenny Atkinson makes every effort to capitalise on this. A wide menu is essential to satisfy those staying on the islands for up to a fortnight and eating out most or all of the time, and all the menus change daily.

Starters of butternut squash velouté with coriander and toasted squash seeds, creamed cauliflower and sorrel velouté, or homemade soup make regular appearances at the Tean. With the sea ever apparent it is hardly surprising that fish features strongly, particularly with the visitors. Home-salted Scillonian Pollack with a clam and mussel chowder, or braised fillet of local turbot with risotto of St Martin's crab are always popular, and three local fishermen are kept busy meeting the customers' needs

A mighty cheeseboard does ample justice to the fine varieties that are made in the south-west, and desserts of warm dark chocolate and marmalade tart with milk sorbet and butterscotch sauce, or caramelised fig tart tatin with liquorice ice cream and red wine syrup are the sort of experience that make a visit to this ambitious restaurant a memorable experience.