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The team that brought us The Felin Fach Griffin, that increasingly popular haven of laid back excellence in the Brecons, have mounted a similar operation, this time in West Cornwall; take one famous old inn, mix with the special atmosphere of a dramatic Atlantic coastline only 500 yards away, add dashes of local ingredients and you have the basis for success. The Gurnard's Head, a handsome building of classic proportions, was the subject of a spirited refurbishment in March 2006.

It re-opened the following month, refashioned by its owners, Charles and Edmund Inkin into another opportunity to pursue their strongly held aim, 'the simple things in life done well'. Essential to the operation is a top-notch team in the kitchen, led here by Bruce Rennie, formerly Head Chef under Martin Wishart in Edinburgh.

The roots of Bruce's approach to the preparation of food are deep rooted and he believes wherever possible in using fresh, local ingredients. Cornwall is noted for its outstanding range of produce and it's no surprise to see that succulently fresh seafood forms an important part of their cuisine.

With the emphasis on informality lunch and supper can be enjoyed in either the bar or the restaurant. The lunch menu will probably be on the blackboard, designed to cover the varying needs of those for whom this is a brief stop to take on body fuel, or others with plenty of time to enjoy the scenery, the food and the friendly atmosphere.

A mention of wine at The Gurnard's Head brings an added sparkle of interest to proceedings. Assisted by various wine merchants, an excellent list from both the Old and New World has been assembled, with the great majority under £25, over fifteen are available by the glass or carafe. This has been achieved by limiting the profit, making for outstanding value, particularly at the top end of the list. Beers have sound local credentials at prices that are kind to those for whom this house is their local.