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hand picked restaurants

The Cathedral city of Truro has much to commend it - tucked away on the south western peninsula of England it has always maintained a sturdy independence that in some ways has tended to look as much to the continent as to London. Perhaps this demonstrates itself best in the survival of fine architecture and buildings, in one of which in Lemon Street, the AA Rosette Bustophers holds court within a contemporary interior.

Their aim would appear to be to gather in not only a loyal local clientele, but also to recognise the large numbers of visitors who flock to the area every summer and increasingly now at other times as well. The atmosphere is relaxed but well able to rise to the more formal in matters of private dining or special occasions.

They open daily at 11am when the first regulars arrive with the Telegraph tucked under their arm to enjoy their wake-up call of cappuccino, before contemplating lunch perhaps. Soon tables all around are taken up by people enjoying a bowl of steamed River Fowey mussels in garlic and white wine cream with fries, or Bustophers chowder served with Baker Tom?s bread.

A pudding of dark chocolate and Amaretto cheesecake with cherry compote, or the local cheeseboard with biscuits and homemade chutney, and it's back to work for some, whilst others settle down to the crossword.

In the evenings a subtle change occurs, still the same lively place, but a touch of 'don't know what' creeps gently in and the evening stretches limitless before those who come to enjoy good company and, shall we say, a Guinea fowl, pork and leek terrine with pear and cider chutney, or pan seared wood pigeon breast with crispy black pudding salad. The Celtic farm chicken breast stuffed with cream cheese and chive in company with caramelised onion and walnut risotto competes with wild mushroom and goats? cheese fricassee on toasted polenta, or Higher Tresawle farm beef lasagne with wild mushrooms, rosemary and garlic ciabatta.

A three course prix fixe menu is available with four main courses, including fish of the day with fettuccini, classic lasagne with steak frites, wonderful value. The private dining facilities, of a high order, could hardly be better placed in Truro.

The wine list is not for the faint hearted, and some thirty are available by the glass. Clearly there is a good team at work in the cellars, not least Walter Hicks of St Austell, H & H Bancroft Wines of London and Berry Bros and Rudd.

Bustophers is essentially a jolly place with high standards achieved and a restless energy that produces great results, giving a new meaning to that feeling of having a second home to hand. It is one operation, not a series of little empires, and it is not difficult to see where the drive comes from.

For more details, including details of field trips to suppliers, and menu changes, click on their Website.

Part of the Whitbread family, Table Table restaurants aim to bring great value tasty pub food to an ever increasing eating-out public who like well prepared and genuine food served by friendly staff in relaxing surroundings. If that sounds too much like a dream come true be assured that at Table Table they also walk the talk, and are pleased to have the chance to prove it.

Their well located restaurants are spread across a wide range of decors and styles, and all of them share a determination to provide comfort, warmth and relaxation. Their buffet menus for special occasions are remarkable value

In keeping with modern trends they provide dishes to nibble or share as guests consider the spread of options on a menu that could be described as British with welcome incursions. So as you share long Italian flatbread, and dough balls and dips, or a sharing platter with an imaginative range of finger food starting with garlic and breaded mushrooms, it's time to think about the relative merits of aromatic duck parcels, a prawn cocktail, breaded Camembert or sticky chicken goujons to name but a few.

Many an innocent dish from the past has been hi-jacked in the best possible sense into becoming what is now called a 'pub classic'. Wiltshire cured ham with eggs is served with chunky chips and beef, mushroom and ale pie, or chicken and chips are all familiar with British tables, be they in the dining room or the kitchen. Now they have been added to by chicken fajitas, a sweet red pepper, crème fraiche and fennel tart, a leg of duck slowly cooked and served with a Bramley apple and cider sauce, or chilli con carne with basmati rice, sour cream and guacamole and nachos. So is the humble burger with six enticing toppings.

The point is they, and others, are all here at Table Table, well prepared with quality ingredients, and presented in a way that makes you hungry even if you thought you weren't.

Getting down to the more serious side of the table keep an eye open for the seafood pie, a delightful assembly of things fishy including crayfish, red snapper, prawns and clams. Many of their steaks are 28 days matured, including a 7oz fillet. All steaks are served with watercress, roasted cherry tomatoes, a flat mushroom and chunky chips. A choice from 4 sauces adds the final touch of enjoyment.

Pastas and salads embrace some well known and loved names, but for sheer enjoyment the hot smoked salmon salad takes some beating - flakes of hot smoked salmon mixed with a house salad and soy and ginger sauce. A real winner.

Snacks aplenty cover hot baguettes with the like of grilled pork loin and Bramley apple sauce, sandwiches filled with Cheddar cheese, or prawns and Marie Rose sauce, and jacket potatoes with such temptations as chilli con carne. Add a bowl of chips for only a little extra.

A well travelled wine list offers helpful advice for the uninitiated and there's an impressive choice of draught and bottled beers and lagers. All in all it would appear that Table Table are more than achieving their aims, providing the opportunity for people to eat out enjoyably, with excellent value for money. Long may they continue to do so.

For completely up to date information on menu changes and special offers do make a regular check on their lively Website.

The Lamplighter Restaurant brings delicious seafood and other dishes prepared from locally sourced produce at this 300 year old location, right in the middle of Probus, Truro. This family run restaurant is a charming and elegant dining destination where you can gather with friends or family for a lovely evening spent in delightful conversation and the promise of a fabulous dinner. The 2 AA Rosette restaurant uses only fresh ingredients and make ample use of the bounties of the West Country, be it fish, locally reared beef and lamb and seasonal vegetables and fruits.

An à la carte changes on a regular basis but could possibly begin with starters of Cornish crab with pink grapefruit on avocado guacamole salsa followed by a main course of slices of fillet steak on a rosti potato served with Dijon mustard and mushroom jus. For dessert, a rich chocolate tart with maple and pecan ice cream does full justification as it indulges your craving for something sweet.

Pizza Express remains a hugely popular bedrock of casual eating. Its popularity is testimony to the fact that across the country, they have restaurants where you will always be guaranteed a good nosh, with children's tastes being well catered for.

Pizza Express has gone even more Roman, and following the success of that particular example of listening to their public have introduced Romana pizzas, including the scorching Etna and the hearty Siciliana.

These pizzas are now thinner, bigger and crispier, and if that sounds like a marketing line, it is. However, unlike many such lines, this one is true, and their quality is always consistent, though cleverly they have still managed to retain a homemade feel to their pizzas.

As an alternative to pizza, try their pollo pesto - cavatappi pasta with torn chicken breast, mushrooms, red onions and mozzarella in a creamy gruyere, parmesan and pesto sauce and finished with grana padano - or the niçoise salad with mixed leaves, yellowfin tuna, free range egg, green beans, potatoes and tomatoes with olives, anchovies, capers and house dressing.

Many of the big chains have come a long way, and Pizza Express is certainly amongst them. One of the first to be quoted on the Stock Exchange - in 1993 - Pizza Express is not a franchise operation and retains tight control through its own staff.

Their wine list - though short - contains some surprisingly good offerings, especially their intense Australian Chardonnay, and a big, full-bodied Merlot from Cusumano, Sicilia.