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Lathwells is a welcome addition to the delightful town of Bideford where, despite an injunction to book a table in the front of the restaurant 'and watch the town buzz with excitement', one enjoys a rather more relaxed pace to that in some of our other country towns.

Specialities of the house are local fish, meat and produce and owner John Emms is enthusiastic to the point of devotion over the sourcing of his materials. In fact Lathwells pays heed to so many of the practises that many look for in a favourite restaurant, such as homemade dishes, even down to the bread, your own table for the evening, frequent menu changes, taxis arranged to collect you from the door, 30 covers only, private function room for 10, buzz at the front, romance at the back of the restaurant. Just great!

Which brings us to the food with a typical meal starting along the lines of prawn risotto with lobster sauce, or a pancake filled with mushrooms, Devon cheese and white wine sauce, followed by slow cooked beef with bacon, mushroom and red wine sauce and mash with more than a dash of horseradish to add sparkle. Sea bass is served with garlic butter or lobster and brandy sauce, or perhaps the black bream with garlic butter or cream and spinach appeals more. You might even find yourself sitting next to the gardener who grew some of the five local vegetables that come with every main course, together with potatoes or salad.

Puddings of Grand Marnier crème brûlée or chocolate and rum pudding bring to a close a thoroughly satisfying meal that achieves an excellent level or presentation, suggesting infinite care in the preparation. Smooth service, an impeccable wine list and table furnishings that are elegantly simple all contribute to making this a place not to be missed.

This former rectory has recently had a full refurbishment, and is gaining a reputation as a popular hotel with a restaurant that offers good food. In addition to a dining area, the venue features a bar lounge which serves meals, and during the winter there is a roaring fire to enjoy. Chef's homemade breads are served as a prelude and then it's off into the crushed tomato and spicy red pepper soup, or an avocado wrapped in Serrano ham with honey and mustard dressing.

Try the roasted noisettes of lamb with a fan of minted pear, topped with a rustic red wine sauce, or enjoy the locally caught grilled sea bass with warm saffron and red onion vinaigrette. All the puddings are prepared in-house, but leave space for garlic soft cheese with some more of that wonderful bread.

A wine list draws from the world paying particular attention to Chile. Half bottles are also available on certain choices.

The Yeoldon House Hotel is a beautiful and charming North Devon country hotel situated on the banks of River Torridge, with a splendidly verdant landscape, tinkling waterfalls, gently sloping gardens and a pond, the perfect antidote to stress or anxiety. The Victorian hotel is the picture of serenity, its ten bedrooms furnished comfortably and luxuriously while their acclaimed restaurant is the perfect place for a relaxing meal. Famed Victorian chef Alexis Soyer is the source of inspiration for this casually elegant British restaurant which offers an imaginative cuisine with a daily changing menu.

Starters could be the smoked haddock and potato soup flavoured with saffron and chives or a salad of avocado, smoked chicken and crispy bacon with a sweet chilli dressing. Follow this with a main course of pan fried Barbary duck breast with a light raspberry jus or trio of lamb cutlets on parsnip and horseradish mash and end with a chocolate truffle mousse. The wine list is extensive, featuring more than 60 international wines.

An 18th century waterside inn, with a relaxed air, in which traditional dishes with a modern twist are served in bucolic surroundings against a background of Devon burr and local gossip. House wine at £8.60 is good value, otherwise the list is adequate and fairly traditional.