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Percy's is a celebration of organic faith with a carbon footprint so low as to be scarcely visible. If you have any lingering doubts about organic products go there and order a meal in their handsome and homely restaurant with its solid oak-backed chairs, crisp table linen and woodburning stove.

Style of cooking? Well, light, fresh and seasonal springs to mind. Those blessed with a bold appetite and love of good food will be blown away by the sheer quality and integrity of the dishes, with their diversity of ingredients, many drawn from the surrounding woods and fields on the 130 acre Coombeshead estate.

Starters of lightly spiced seafood chowder with fresh coriander sets the tone, and in summer watch out for an avocado, broad bean, bacon and summer savory salad, followed by a grilled duo of John  Dory and turbot with sauce béarnaise, or oven roast home-reared lamb. A cheese course could include Daylesford cheddar or Shepherd's crook from local ewes, with a dessert of lemon tart with rosemary ice cream and raspberries to follow.

But Percy's is about a great deal more than just eating. It is a statement of living, an introduction to a way of life that is becoming the goal of an increasing number of people who take the time to think through.