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The Thurlestone Hotel has been owned and run by the same family since 1896, during which time they have built up one of the leading country house hotels in Devon. Located on one of the loveliest stretches of the English Riviera the dining room, recently the subject of a £1.7m refurbishment, with its full length windows offers a classic setting for an equally classic approach to the cuisine.

The dinner menu changes daily and it would be a surprise if Head Chef David Bunn, did not resort to seafood as a major contributor. Starters may take in smooth duck pate with a compote of apples and orange crisps, a tower of hand-picked Salcombe crabmeat bound with a light citrus mayonnaise, followed by a raspberry sorbet. A hearty appetite seems to be a prerequisite of those gracing the tables of this hotel, and roast rib of Devonshire beef comes with Yorkshire pudding, horseradish cream, Burgundy wine and onion gravy. The grilled fillet of John Dory sits well with saffron cocotte potatoes, red pepper coulis and basil pesto.

It would be unusual for Devonshire clotted cream not to make an appearance and sure enough there it is astride the salad of fresh fruits, with other options of quenelles of dark chocolate mousse, and a light lemon and lime mille feuille with a strawberry and black pepper salad. The wine list follows the classic theme that pervades the hotel.