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If there is one part of rural southern England that remains relatively immune from the worst excesses of our overcrowded island it must be those tucked away areas within the Dorset Downs. In some places little changed since the days of Hardy they offer a retro view into another, kinder world. Harpers and Queen magazine recognise this quality and Summer Lodge has their accolade amongst "100 Best Places in the World" and "Top 10 in the UK".

In no small way this is due to the 3 AA Rosette award-winning restaurant, where the Relais and Châteaux code of Courtesy, Charm, Character, Calm and Cuisine is well recognised. With a menu presided over by Executive Chef, Steven Titman, formerly of the popular White Barn Inn in Kennebunkport, Maine, widely acclaimed at an international level, it is not surprising that awards tend to flow in parallel with the smoothness of the service.

The menu takes its inspiration from the ingredients so richly available in this well-blessed part of England, a fact of which the public at large become increasingly aware as Hugh Fernley Whittingstall continues to sing their praises at River Cottage HQ. Starters may include seared sea scallops with Jerusalem artichokes, a warm smoked haddock fillet with white bean and chorizo 'cassoulet', trio of quail in the form of roast breast, confit leg and consommé, or grilled red mullet with a butternut squash carpaccio.

Steve Titman's signature dish invokes the best of Dorset, with roast loin of Dorset lamb and braised shoulder 'Shepherd's Pie' with Savoy cabbage and rosemary jus. The sea is seductively near and some of the best fish in Britain is landed along the south coast. Keep a lookout for Cornish turbot, langoustine and winter truffle strudel with creamed cauliflower and Noilly prat, or a delightful lasagne of John Dory fillets and local mussels with a light curry foam and cucumber salad.

Desserts could in no way be described as puddings - rather works of culinary art, each with its own recommended wine. A glass or two of Italian Braida, Brachetto d'Acqui (DOCG) Piedmont 2004 may give the clue to an assiette of 'Valrhona' chocolate, dark chocolate fondant, white chocolate mousse and milk chocolate ice cream, surely enough to beguile the most resistant sweet-tooth.

All four of the desserts on the menu come together as a Taste of Summer Lodge for two people to share, even greater fun if you have a glass of each of the suggested wines en route.

For those able to pool their gourmet aspirations into one menu the two taster menus offer a wonderful solution, with grilled fillet of veal, local ham, Swiss cheese beignets, vanilla panna cotta and roasted blackberries, followed by Malibu jelly, coconut sorbet and mango sauce, as but one example.

On hand to assist in matters of wine is the resident Sommelier, backed by the resources of a notable list. Wine Dinners are a regular feature of the restaurant's, normally held on the first Tuesday of the month, when Eric Siebel MS, Cellar Master at Summer Lodge, offers a menu of four courses with five wines, starting at an incredibly reasonable £65.

The Acorn Inn, set in the picturesque West Dorset village of Evershot, did not escape the attentions of Thomas Hardy, and in Tess of d'Urbervilles it became the 'Sow and Acorn'. Perhaps Hardy had the protection of the innocent in mind for it is very easy to be beguiled by the easy antiquity of this wonderful old, stone-built inn, which offers attractive and well-prepared food in totally rustic surroundings.

All the original charm and character of 400 years exudes from the beamed bars and log fires that greet guests on arrival, nestling among the rolling hills in an area of outstanding beauty and close to the British Heritage Coastline, you have the perfect base for exploring or walking.

As is so often the case it depends for its brilliance upon simplicity of ideas and an extensive offering of fishy dishes. Only the best fresh local ingredients are used to produce excellent meals, in either of the bars or the restaurant, while the two oak-panelled bars offer real ales, as well as a comprehensive wine list. House wine at £12.95.

It is difficult to give an indication for the Average Cost of a Meal at lunchtime, as they offer such a wide variety, from the full 'a la carte' to bar meals which range from £4.50 to £10.95.

You can relax in any of their ten individually decorated and furnished bedrooms, each taking their name from Hardy's "Tess of the d'Urbervilles", "Tess" is a charming room with a feature bay window overlooking the village and "Silverthorn" boasts a four-poster bed, corner bath and shower.

All rooms have colour televisions, telephones with modems and beverage-making facilities; prices include full English breakfast, served between 8.00 and 9.30am, unless by prior arrangement.