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Staying at Combe House, be it for a weekend, or just for a meal, has about it the feeling of intruding on territory which belongs primarily to the indigenous birds and animals, who are around in profusion. So also is the local produce, much of it produced in the surrounding gardens and farms of the area.

One should also never forget that the sea is not far away from anywhere in Somerset, yielding gloriously fresh fish and seafood, such as Somerset Brown shrimp remoulade, or from more earthy surroundings grilled Exmoor goats' cheese with walnut oil and balsamic vinegar.

A main course of poached plaice stuffed with salmon and wild rocket, done with lime, caper and white wine bouillabaisse has a great combination of flavours and calls for careful timing. This is country cooking at its best and it shows itself in the buzz of enjoyment that sits easily with the style and location of this pretty hotel in its idyllic setting.