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Given that the buildings so often reflect, and help make, the character of a stretch of country it is little surprise to find that The Rusty Axe - near Martock and roughly halfway between Taunton and Yeovil, not too far from the M5 either - is what many would regard as the quintessential English pub, with over 400 years of history tucked under its well-thatched roof, even though its food is more Modern British rather than ancient Briton.

The menu well worth a detour - it's an absolute delight, full of genuine surprises'. A choice from six starters is worthy of careful thought. Shall it be butternut squash soup or garlic and herb tiger prawns? Among main courses there is sausage shed pork and cider sausages with all the trimmings, or 12 hour belly pork with salted squid, pak choi and ginger.

A thoughtful wine list follows the same pattern of selective skills, with House by the glass and descriptions that might tempt even the most ardent abstainer.

A delightful and totally welcoming piece of old England that knows well how to present itself to the 21st century.

The Ash House Country is a small family run establishment in the heart of the Somerset countryside. The building, which is over three hundred years old, has been lovingly restored into a warm and hospitable hotel.

The conservatory overlooks the floodlit garden, while the dining room has open log fires during winter. Their a la carte menu is available for lunch and dinner from Tuesday until Saturday. The restaurant is open to residents and casual diners and also offers a two course lunch. Residents can take advantage of a table d'hote menu on Sunday and Monday.