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In the sleepy port of Porlock it is possible to forget the passage of time and to shake off current worries in an atmosphere of great natural beauty and calm. Andrew's on the Weir exists to enable this to be done in more comfort and enjoyment than might otherwise be possible. At Andrew's they believe sourcing is the key so that everything that is served except the oil and the butter, it is claimed, are made on the premises. It is only slightly misleading to say that their olives come from their own Grecian olives. The fish, the flesh and the produce all comes from the area around Porlock. It is, perhaps, possible for that particular mantra to be over-exposed, though many will support the view that the more you know about what you are eating the more confident your enjoyment can be.

Amongst the starters look for the fillet of Cornish red mullet nicoise with sauce vierge, and the presse of local duck, pigeon and rabbit with pickled vegetables and red wine reduction. The fillet of local seabass on garlic olive oil potatoes, with confit fennel and bouillabaisse sauce offers an alternative to the roast saddle of Exmoor venison with savoy cabbage and bacon, spiced cranberries and red wine sauce. Puddings are well to the fore of performance and the delice of two chocolates with cherries and kirsch is something of a signature dish. A good wine list, with fair prices, is supplemented by seven house wines between £10.25 and £19.95 or £3.45 to £5.50 by the glass.

Located on the edge of Exmoor, it is not too difficult to imagine the world of Lorna Doone at the end of the garden leading away from this beautiful house. Holiday cottages offer a good alternative for accommodation as children below 14 years are not allowed in the main hotel. In the magnificent panelled dining room locally inspired dishes form a major part of the menu, extensively featuring herbs from their own garden. There's also a stylish conservatory where you can dine in comfort, looking out over the courtyard and gardens.

Starters could be a foie gras crème brûlée with cereliac remoulade on melba toast followed by a main course of red ruby Devon beef with horseradish mashed potatoes, wilted spinach and Madeira juice. For dessert, an iced parfait of nougat glace with raspberry compote is delectable while a selection of West Country cheese served with homemade chutneys is deeply satisfying. This is a place of unpretentious delights at every turn and well worthy of a visit.