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I don't know about Old Spot but certainly the current Hot Spot in the West Country is at Wells, where Ian Bates, one time prodigy of Simon Hopkinson, that relatively unsung hero of the culinary world has set up Old Spot, to be swamped with rave reviews and predictions of success.

The throwing around of money is not a characteristic of the good folk of Wells or its visitors, so pricing has been critical, producing incredibly good food at incredibly bargain prices.

The whole emphasis is on dishes that both sound good and also have strong visual appeal. The lunch menu carries five choices in starters and mains, with four desserts. Amongst dishes to delight are a ceviche of organic salmon with delicately chopped red chilli, some fresh coriander and a smooth avocado purée, braised shoulder of lamb that had been slowly cooked over many hours, then pan-fried as required ensuring the meat has a crisp caramelised finish.

A dessert of peach trifle laced with pistachios provided a finish with a flourish. The wine list is the product of Bill Baker, former child of Avery's, who knew an opportunity when he saw one, and is already highly regarded.

Jay Rayner, writing in The Observer notes that what is needed in the restaurant business is more places that offer the prospect both financially and gastronomically of a three times a week habit. Old Spot would seem to fit into that category perfectly.

For some time I made the mistake of thinking that no group of restaurants in the region of 200 locations could hope to maintain the quality for which I was looking.

Then one day I decided to put my prejudices to the test, walked into Oxford Ask! and discovered that I could not have been more mistaken. Their claim to serve freshly prepared quality food in stylish and comfortable surroundings with friendly and efficient service proved to be absolutely spot on.

Since then I have also discovered that a degree of consistency seems to operate throughout their restaurants, and that certainly does take some achieving, implying a degree of management that is enviable. They are perfect places for an impromptu snack, a bit of culinary grazing, or the full works, and families are catered for particularly well.

Their trendy décor usually comprises tiled floors and black furniture with well set tables that sparkle with glass, silver and spotless linen. Ten starters include crostini and bruschetta, followed by a range of salads, pasta and al forno, oven baked pasta, some with chicken.

The pizzas are stone baked in the oven, creating a crisp, authentic and delicious flavour, and they all come topped with mozzarella and tomato. Calzone introduce a touch of opulence with a folded pizza baked in the oven and topped with garlic butter and melted grana padano, whilst inside expect to find chicken or a vegetarian mix.

Amongst the specials may I warmly, in every sense, recommend the polpette al forno, a popular Milanese dish of beef meatballs sautéed in garlic with fire roasted peppers, caramelised onions, chilli and pomodoro sauce, with penne pasta, topped with cheese and oven baked.

An enticing selection of desserts list banoffee pie and tiramisu amongst them, and the coffee tastes like coffee, which may sound banal, but I guess you know what I mean.

Thanks to a well selected wine list speculative drinking can offer handsome dividends, even with prices rarely crossing the £20 barrier.