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The church, formerly served by this elegant and welcoming house is Saxon, so it comes as no surprise to find that the former Rectory has its foundations firmly rooted in the 17th century. The wood-panelled restaurant, backed up by a traditional conservatory (these old-time clergy were looked after pretty well, thank you) offer a pleasant background where imaginative and thoughtfully prepared food is served by well-trained and attentive staff.

Peter Fairclough, who was formerly head chef at The Greenway, Cheltenham, heads the team. He is complemented by chefs of proven quality, who have worked with Peter previously and together they produce dishes that are modern British in style, with an emphasis on fresh seasonal ingredients that are wherever possible organic.

His dishes could include tian of crab with herb salad and pesto dressing or pressed terrine of guinea fowl with mushrooms a la grecque to commence, followed by seared supreme of salmon with basil mash, smoked salmon tortellini on a saffron sauce or roast chump of lamb with dauphinoise potato, spinach on a baby caper and rosemary jus. The wine list is quite rightly somebody's pride and joy, with house wine from £13.50.

Throughout the country the land is rich with old pubs, which have been taken over by chefs and transformed into very handy little money machines. Inevitably they tend to polarize but here at The Horse and Groom it has not happened. 'Peoples of all classes' (and it has to be said, conditions) mingle happily in this free and easy place. Nicola and Phillip met whilst at catering school and now they run a place that must be the envy of many. There really are no criticisms one can make and it is a real joy to see two such competent and lovely people making such a success out of being genuine in every way.

To say that house wine kicks off at £7.95 merely emphasizes the point.

A very smart country house hotel, for the exceptionally well-heeled, a place where the less pleasing elements of society are left behind and damage to peace of mind can be gently soothed away. As ever, no small part of the process is contained within the dining room, or, if you prefer, the Brasserie, Le Mazot. In charge of operations is Head Chef Martin Burge, formerly of L'Ortolan, Le Manoir aux Quat' Saisons and Pied a Terre. Whilst the cuisine majors on French cooking it is not above a touch of digression here and there, with pleasing results.

Whilst I am never quite convinced about the merits of a dived scallop as opposed to one that has been captured by other means, there is a pleasant feeling of personal service and association with the hand that catches, so yes, let's go for the thinly sliced hand-dived scallops, topped with a poached oyster and champagne veloute. Should that not tempt there's always the whole quail, far from its home in Anjou, roasted and served with its leg confit and rolled with foie gras garnished with white grapes and leaves in season, bound with a walnut dressing. Loin of lamb makes a welcome appearance, topped with sweetbreads and roasted with curried spices served with courgette flowers and pea shoots, but if the sea still calls consider the Cornish red mullet, panfried and accompanied by more of the scallops, but roasted this time and accompanied by a fricassee of squid and cherry tomatoes, not to mention a light bouillabaisse.

And talking of the personal touch there can be few things more so than a souffle, with its split second timing, so the hot souffle it is with pistachio and chocolate and accompanied by its own sorbet and ice creams. Close into second place comes the passion fruit and pineapple, made into raviolis and served with a coconut froth.

Given that the whole emphasis of Whatley is hedonistic one could hardly wish for more except to reassure that the wine list is in keeping with the rest of the Manor's concern for the welfare of those who want nothing but the best and have the means. The award of a Michelin Star in 2005 is well justified.

No children under 12 years.

Reputed to be the oldest hotel in England, the building is fashioned out of a Guesthouse built in 1220 at the bidding of the Abbot of Malmesbury who clearly wished to look after his visitors properly. Seated upon his personal cloud the Abbot must now be looking with approval upon arrangements within his foundation. There is, perhaps a tendency to over-egg on some of the adornments but in general the food is excellent and the surroundings conducive to calm enjoyment. Given that the Abbot could be assumed to be using his own cellar he would not have quibbled with the prices on the wine list, even if some of his (paying) guests had felt compelled to resort to the nearest off-licence. House wine at £15.

Located at the edge of the Cotswolds, an agreeable place at which to end up the day with some simple, classic food, well-prepared and unfussy, after drinks in the beamed bar. The Mayfield House Hotel also offers traditional Cotswold cream teas, which can be enjoyed in the restaurants stunning gardens. House wine at £8.95.