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Pizza Express remains a hugely popular bedrock of casual eating. Its popularity is testimony to the fact that across the country, they have restaurants where you will always be guaranteed a good nosh, with children's tastes being well catered for.

Pizza Express has gone even more Roman, and following the success of that particular example of listening to their public have introduced Romana pizzas, including the scorching Etna and the hearty Siciliana.

These pizzas are now thinner, bigger and crispier, and if that sounds like a marketing line, it is. However, unlike many such lines, this one is true, and their quality is always consistent, though cleverly they have still managed to retain a homemade feel to their pizzas.

As an alternative to pizza, try their pollo pesto - cavatappi pasta with torn chicken breast, mushrooms, red onions and mozzarella in a creamy gruyere, parmesan and pesto sauce and finished with grana padano - or the niçoise salad with mixed leaves, yellowfin tuna, free range egg, green beans, potatoes and tomatoes with olives, anchovies, capers and house dressing.

Many of the big chains have come a long way, and Pizza Express is certainly amongst them. One of the first to be quoted on the Stock Exchange - in 1993 - Pizza Express is not a franchise operation and retains tight control through its own staff.

Their wine list - though short - contains some surprisingly good offerings, especially their intense Australian Chardonnay, and a big, full-bodied Merlot from Cusumano, Sicilia.

Pizza Express remains a hugely popular bedrock of casual eating. Its popularity is testimony to the fact that across the country, they have restaurants where you will always be guaranteed a good nosh, with children's tastes being well catered for.

Pizza Express has gone even more Roman, and following the success of that particular example of listening to their public have introduced Romana pizzas, including the scorching Etna and the hearty Siciliana.

These pizzas are now thinner, bigger and crispier, and if that sounds like a marketing line, it is. However, unlike many such lines, this one is true, and their quality is always consistent, though cleverly they have still managed to retain a homemade feel to their pizzas.

As an alternative to pizza, try their pollo pesto - cavatappi pasta with torn chicken breast, mushrooms, red onions and mozzarella in a creamy gruyere, parmesan and pesto sauce and finished with grana padano - or the niçoise salad with mixed leaves, yellowfin tuna, free range egg, green beans, potatoes and tomatoes with olives, anchovies, capers and house dressing.

Many of the big chains have come a long way, and Pizza Express is certainly amongst them. One of the first to be quoted on the Stock Exchange - in 1993 - Pizza Express is not a franchise operation and retains tight control through its own staff.

Their wine list - though short - contains some surprisingly good offerings, especially their intense Australian Chardonnay, and a big, full-bodied Merlot from Cusumano, Sicilia.

The Great Makeover goes on and nowhere more so than at The Linnet where chef/proprietor Jonathan Thurby has transformed an ailing village local into a People's Pub, it has to be said in the nicest possible way. One of the lynchpins here is that wherever possible it is made on the premises. Such things as bread, pasta and ice cream are all home-produced. Ingredients used in the preparation of the dishes are fresh, purchased locally if possible and deployed with sensitivity. "Is there nothing wrong with this paragon of virtue?" do I hear you ask, to which the reply is quite honestly no. With a sensible compact wine list, menus to match, Wadworth's best on draught and decent house wine at £10.95 all's well with the world.

A very smart country house hotel, for the exceptionally well-heeled, a place where the less pleasing elements of society are left behind and damage to peace of mind can be gently soothed away. As ever, no small part of the process is contained within the dining room, or, if you prefer, the Brasserie, Le Mazot. In charge of operations is Head Chef Martin Burge, formerly of L'Ortolan, Le Manoir aux Quat' Saisons and Pied a Terre. Whilst the cuisine majors on French cooking it is not above a touch of digression here and there, with pleasing results.

Whilst I am never quite convinced about the merits of a dived scallop as opposed to one that has been captured by other means, there is a pleasant feeling of personal service and association with the hand that catches, so yes, let's go for the thinly sliced hand-dived scallops, topped with a poached oyster and champagne veloute. Should that not tempt there's always the whole quail, far from its home in Anjou, roasted and served with its leg confit and rolled with foie gras garnished with white grapes and leaves in season, bound with a walnut dressing. Loin of lamb makes a welcome appearance, topped with sweetbreads and roasted with curried spices served with courgette flowers and pea shoots, but if the sea still calls consider the Cornish red mullet, panfried and accompanied by more of the scallops, but roasted this time and accompanied by a fricassee of squid and cherry tomatoes, not to mention a light bouillabaisse.

And talking of the personal touch there can be few things more so than a souffle, with its split second timing, so the hot souffle it is with pistachio and chocolate and accompanied by its own sorbet and ice creams. Close into second place comes the passion fruit and pineapple, made into raviolis and served with a coconut froth.

Given that the whole emphasis of Whatley is hedonistic one could hardly wish for more except to reassure that the wine list is in keeping with the rest of the Manor's concern for the welfare of those who want nothing but the best and have the means. The award of a Michelin Star in 2005 is well justified.

No children under 12 years.