It seems extraordinary that twenty years on Liverpool still has only one Chilean restaurant. Julio Arellano, the Chilean owner, is a man who takes no prisoners and the chorizo and tortilla are his own make. His links with his homeland are strong and there are a number of places and institutions in Chile which daily benefit from his philanthropy.

Closer to Liverpool the customers of Valparaiso benefit from his expertise amidst the stoves, where seafood in some form is a primary dish. Starters may include the excellent house fish soup, fresh mussels and smoked duck-breasts that have benefited from corn feeding.

Main courses are challenging and exciting with minced beef topped by sweetcorn, paella Valparaiso made with saffron rice and seafood and shredded beef in a tortilla wrap as lead favourites. There is also a good vegetarian selection.

In a country where men are men, puddings are no big deal, but there is a selection for those who have space left in the tanks after fuelling up on Julio's spicier offerings. The respect occasioned by Chilean wines demonstrates itself in the list. All told it comes as little surprise that Valparaiso continues to bring comfort and pleasure to the appetites of Liverpool - and well beyond.