Veeraswamy

Veeraswamy is not just a first class Indian restaurant in London - it is an institution, the sort of place, admittedly now pretty rare, that enthusiasts exiled to parts of Britain where 'slipping out for an Indian' is not an option, dream about as they savour in their minds those enchanting aromas, the subtle, sometimes gloriously blatant, flavours.

Since 1926, when the great grandson of an English General, and an Indian Princess founded this part of what has become our heritage, Veeraswamy has provided delight and nourishment to the millions of contented Britons and their friends. The list of celebrities is as endless as the exotic menus that have so skilfully kept pace with the passage of time. Similarly their Website offers a feast of colour and information that dazzles and informs in a clear and attractive way.

The décor, luxury blended with chic, reflects a Maharaja's palace of the 1920s and all the glitz and colourful extravagance that they invoke. The silver painted ceiling has been restored to its original height of 10 feet, the chandeliers take full advantage of the extra space, all lending a compelling aura of the Indian sub-continent only a short distance from Piccadilly. After the refurbishment Andrew Lloyd Webber, a man not normally give to over-statement, commented in the Daily Telegraph, "One of the best new rooms in the Capital".

So what of the cuisine? Well, as you can probably imagine by now, Veeraswamy is not just a pretty face, and the food is sensational. A menu of classical dishes satisfies those who treasure the ancient recipes and inclinations of Indian cuisine, whilst leaving plenty of room for more contemporary creations that excite and inspire.

The basis of Indian food is sharing, even if some starters benefit from more individual attention. A cuisine that covers the whole of India, favouring no particular area is offered, including some dishes that are seldom seen outside India. First courses hover between the £5.50-£9 mark, mains around £15-£20, with desserts about £5.50.

This means that for a first class three course dinner with wine and service expect to spend around £50, with lunch prices at about £35.

Close attention is paid at Veeraswamy to the classical dishes from homes both well to do, and bourgeois. Tandoor ovens as used on the North West frontier have always produced wonderfully flavoured food such as Kashmiri rogan josh, or begum bahar, a home style Lucknow chicken korma with saffron. A much prized speciality from the Royal kitchens of Hyberadad is Nizami Murgh, chicken breast and koftas with pine nut, lemon and rose petal.

It is a real joy to see proper attention being paid to some of the specialities that come from India's extended coastline, where 35% of the population live, notably Goa and the Malabar coast. Enjoy Malabar lobster curry with fresh turmeric and unripe mango or that Bengali classic, sea bream paturi, steamed in a banana leaf with a chilli and mustard sauce.

Indian desserts are there in abundance, though I find that by that stage in the meal I have normally declared a truce. And for a real treat take the family to enjoy an Indian Sunday lunch at Veeraswamy.