Waldo's at Cliveden

Cliveden has been a byword for fine dining and lavish entertainment for over three centuries, and this tradition still flourishes today. As one would expect there is an ample choice of rooms in which to enjoy the fine cuisine and faultless hospitality which has attracted numerous awards and accolades.

Cliveden House dates from 1666 when the 2nd Duke of Buckingham, a hell-raking figure who set society by the ears and gave Cliveden its close association with the fast set and the politicians that has lasted to this day. Harold Macmillan, British Prime Minister in the late 1950s, when told that the house was to become a hotel famously remarked 'm'dear boy, it always has been . . ' and one suspects he would not be disappointed with the reality. As the hotel brochure says, 'the tradition of impeccable hospitality and extravagant entertainment continues to make any stay at Cliveden the experience of a lifetime'.

Such a comment bodes well for the restaurant, where the habit of luxurious eating and drinking is maintained faultlessly and with an aplomb of which the Duke of Buckingham would have undoubtedly been proud. There are dining rooms for all occasions, but our focus rests upon Waldo's, the intimate room named after Thomas Waldo Story, the American sculptor who created the Fountain of Love at Cliveden.

Cliveden's latest contribution to the rumbustuous memory of the Duke of Buckingham was the scandal surrounding a prominent Cabinet Minister's association with Christine Keeler and Dr Stephen Ward, and through them a Defence Attaché at the Russian Embassy.

The entranceway to Waldo's is lined with photographs from the Astor years, focusing on their guests, ranging from Henry Ford to Lloyd George. The restaurant has something of a reputation for offering the crème de la crème when it comes to cuisine. Here's where you will find Chris Horridge, Cliveden's Executive Head Chef, and team present their award winning and increasingly internationally recognised cooking. A thorough understanding of nutritional biased techniques is the restaurant's trademark proving that you can truly indulge without the guilt.

Starters of paillette of young vegetables and herbs, crisp wafer, pollen and paper lead the way. The sea is not overlooked and scallops poached in coconut oil are served with whipped shallot with capers. Main courses offer Anjou pigeon with cep-cinnamon 'dredging' and watercress, or lamb loin accompanied by daub of wild garlic leaf, morels and honey comb. Desserts are very much in the classical tradition, starting with rhubarb and pineapple nougat glace, sugared almond helter skelter and beetroot.

Eating in Waldo's is a memorable experience and three menus have been created to offer something for everyone. The 'Without' sugar, dairy and gluten free tasting menu demonstrates the team's very latest research in nutrition science regarding nutrient bioavailability and absorption. The 'With' tasting carte is perhaps for those with a less experimental palate encompassing dishes you would expect to find in a high quality restaurant where the chef has firm control of his craft using the finest quality ingredients with innovative flair.

The recommended wines at Waldo's start with a Riesling Brut and wind their way through an invigorating selection that includes a Domaine Thierry Mortet and a De Bortoli Noble One, Botrytis Semillon. Dining at Waldo's is dining in great style with tradition and history, not to mention the superlative cuisine.

Cliveden is one of the great country houses in Britain; to find out more about the wonderful opportunities to dine or stay there, do visit their Website.

Food images courtesy of Executive Chef Chris Horridge.