With the organic produce all around it is little wonder that this enterprising venture is universally popular. One of the charges not infrequently levelled at organic produce is its rather rough and ready appearance before it hits the pots, but here even that minor shortcoming seems to have been ironed out of the process, encouraging more and more people to visit the shop before they leave.

If it's been a heavy night and you are making a morning visit, think in terms of a bacon butty, or for the more indulgent a full-house English breakfast with some of Phil's dark marmalade, jam or honey. Or perhaps an early lunch, and it would be a brave man who enquired if the rabbit casserole owed anything to a former recent resident of the walled garden. A recent visitor described in glowing terms the accompanying roughly chopped carrots, onions, wild mushrooms and a dark seductive sauce. Never having knowingly been seduced by a sauce I found the prospect deeply appealing. The spinach and mushroom tart is also popular. For pudding there is local bread and cheese, washed down with apple juice, or try the homemade apple and pear crumble, a sort of bucolic Eton mess.

But food, location and quality on one side, the most striking feature of the whole place is almost certainly the pricing. On average it is probably fair to say that for the standard of dishes served you would pay roughly three times as much anywhere else. A splendid lunch for two without wine will cost you around £24.