Waterfront Brasserie, The

Portsmouth, whilst still a premier naval base, continues its progress from guns to ploughshares, with large sections of the Dockyard becoming open to tourism under the influence of Nelson's flagship, HMS Victory, the Mary Rose and other public attractions both afloat and on shore.

Waterfront is located amongst the Gunwharf Quays, an area which has changed its purpose from the potentially explosive purposes of my naval days, to the gentler task of keeping happy the thousands of visitors who come here every year. As one of Portsmouth's premier shopping outlets, with the delights of Old Portsmouth and the Historic Dockyard only a short distance away, it is in poll position to do this uniquely well. From the windows of the Waterfront Brasserie an outdoor terrace and stunning views across the harbour make this an attractive watering hole at the best of times, but on a good summer's day it has a special pull.

An à la carte menu offers an excellent range of dishes that reflect the association with the sea and a naval port as well as sound local produce. Head Chef Wayne Reffel and his highly skilled team of chefs follow a European path with diversions into other parts of the globe when the spirit moves them.

Smoked salmon, moules marinière, chicken liver parfait with onion marmalade, and warm crispy duck and bacon salad all make towards a satisfying opening round before moving on to a sirloin or ribeye steak, possibly even a home made burger with Monterey jack cheese.

Regular brasserie dishes are well represented, with whole lemon sole, joined by parma ham and capers, smoked haddock with potato salad, poached egg and hollandaise, fillet of pork wrapped in bacon, and the ever welcome Cumberland sausages served with mash and rich onion gravy.

Not everybody wants major dishes - only yesterday I read of two A List celebs sharing in a Hollywood café dishes that would be regarded by the average healthy alpha male as appetisers - so Waterfront thoughtfully provides light dishes such as the Brasserie omelette, steak ciabatta, and Caesar salad with char-grilled chicken.

It's a rare menu nowadays that does not include the famous sticky toffee pudding, memorably re-christened by a restaurant in the north that shall remain nameless as stiffy tacky pudding, but I'm sure you get the drift. Apricot bread and butter pudding or dark chocolate tart with malted chocolate ice cream provide some room for originality.

Children here have their own menu with the customary favourites on display though captain birdseye, who might have liked a foothold in this maritime stronghold is nowhere to be seen.

Special offers for groups are conspicuous by their presence, offering excellent value. All you have to do is book in advance on line, with a 2 course fixed price menu including a glass of champagne for £19.95. Happy Hour is generally a cause for merriment wherever it occurs, and Portsmouth Harbour is no exception, except that in this case it starts at 12 and finishes at 7pm.

A click on their Website is seldom wasted, with new offers, menu changes and arrangements for private dining to bring you back up to date - and ship-shape!