Wernher Restaurant at Luton Hoo

The latest acquisition by Elite Hotels is one of the more exceptional former stately homes in England. Luton Hoo changed hands in 1999 but such has been the scale of preparation that work did not start until 2005. Now complete, the hotel opened in October 2007 and is a masterpiece of what can be done in such a potentially sensitive situation.

There are two restaurants, the Adams Brasserie and the Wernher Restaurant. The latter is all set for three rosettes with Chef Ian Penn, formerly of London's Jumeirah Carlton Tower.

The table d'hote menu could include ham and parsley terrine with Dijon mustard emulsion and celeriac remoulade, followed by pave of salmon wrapped in pancetta, spring onion mash and red wine sauce. For sheer indulgence head for a dessert of white chocolate torte with brandy poached cherries.

The surroundings are sumptuous without being overpowering, but both HM The Queen and Winston Churchill are noted for selectivity in staying away from home, and they, with many Heads of State have savoured this outstanding house's charms. Some £60m has been spent in ensuring that it has regained its former panache, the Victorian golf course has had an update, and there is the now almost obligatory spa.