The horrors of eating at the British seaside are too well catalogued to be ignored. So it is with profound relief that we are able to record exceptions to the rule, of which West Beach is without doubt one. Only a short distance from the pier it is located in a bright, large cheerful room that immediately inspires confidence and optimism; with outside seating when the weather is being kind.

An ideal family place the menu is geared towards all ages and good food is presented so well that it tends to take precedence over what children naturally go for. But everything is beautifully prepared, looks thoroughly wholesome and is incredibly good value. As one would expect the fruits of the sea feature largely on the menu, and there is never any doubt about its provenance.

Opening for breakfast each day from nine to eleven, the main act starts at midday. You can opt for a light lunch, with choices like salmon fishcakes, cod and chips, fish soup or moules marinières, with slightly more mundane offerings like burgers or baguettes, but besides the a la carte they also have an extremely reasonably priced 'menu du jour', this is served, at a higher price, in the evening as well.