West Stoke House

This pleasantly large house, on the western slopes of the Sussex Downs, a part of the world that the almighty created on an especially good day, and which mercifully his inheritors have largely managed to avoid spoiling, has now been home to Darren Brown - formerly of The Lanesborough, London - and his brigade for the last 5 years.

This in itself is probably enough to justify a visit, but coupled with the location and the overall management of the hotel, the whole proposition becomes irresistible. The recent addition of the third rosette and the first Michelin star for a restaurant in Chichester is showing that the consistency and quality of this team is being rewarded.

Amongst the range of starters consider the confit belly of Wallops Wood Gloucestershire old spot pork with carrot purée, braised lentils, or the assiette of quail, with truffle potatoes, broad beans. Main courses of roasted rump of Cornish lamb, roasted garlic purée, creamed potato, pan fried sweetbreads and tongue, spring greens, port wine sauce, or the pan roasted monkfish tail, crab beignet, spring onion mash, dried ham and tomato, herb dressing. The short menu of 4 starters, 4 main courses shows the kitchen at its best. The vegetarians would receive a menu of their own if they notify the restaurant when they book their table.

A decent wine list, with a great selection of carefully chosen wines by the glass as well as an interesting and varied selection of wines from around the globe at sensible prices, this is almost overshadowed by the professional, relaxed yet informative and friendly service complete the pleasure at this agreeable place.