Every city has its institutions and Whighams has acquired that status within our northern capital. Tucked away in cellars on the corner of Hope Street as it wends its way towards Charlotte Square, this popular wine bar can be easily missed, which would be a shame since it has atmosphere, and every evening is happy hour.

The wine is terrific, as might be expected, with choices for everybody, and a particularly good range of champagnes on offer. By the glass or bottle seems to matter little and any excuse to get the cork out is welcomed.

Equally special is the very good quality food that is offered up with all sorts of dishes that one might hardly expect to find in such Falstaffian surroundings. The seafood platter is notable; there are gloriously fresh oysters with raspberry vinaigrette, a fisherman's pie packed with the real thing, smoked seafood pate, and a range of desserts that positively cry out for a nice sticky pudding wine to see them on their last journey.

The whole place is a mass of alcoves which in some quarters might be regarded as romantic, but not a chance here with the wine flowing and the gossip of an articulate city circulating at turbo-assisted level. For anyone of a jolly and companionable disposition Whighams is heaven on earth - or slightly below it.

Recently a restaurant has been added which means they can take groups. Not all the regulars are totally happy with this, but the two sides seem to co-exist together quite happily once the first few bottles have been consigned to oblivion. And if it helps keep the prices to their very reasonable levels who can grumble?