White Hart at Pool, The

At every turn, it seems, what were once licensed premises in various forms, be they Victorian pubs, country retreats for old codgers, or boozers that had lost the plot, are being snapped up by enterprising groups, usually of young men, and transformed into something more in keeping with the aspirations of the age.

The transformations are being carried out with varying degrees of skill, but on the whole results are goods, and I can think of several in our own part of the world that have been improved beyond belief. The secret of course, is often to keep the best of what went before and combine it with the advantages of modern living. In general people do not like change overmuch unless it improves their enjoyment, and gastropubs like The White Hart can certainly lay claim to do that, located in a particularly gorgeous part of Yorkshire, and now once more the centre of village life, where traditional values are respected.

The ancient charm that pervaded before the new order remains intact, and has been give added lustre by clever use of more up to date materials, colours and fittings. The ability to eat decently and without fuss is an essential part of the gastropub credo, and again The White Hart scores, with a straightforward menu packed with dishes that offer immediate appeal. Old concepts of the standard three course meal are out of the window, enjoyment of food as you would like it to be is in.

To set the right note of fashionable sociability there are sharing plates, Spanish tapas of Serrano ham, manchego, sardines and tortilla, a baked Camembert with rustic bread, Greek mezze with taramasalata with humus, tzatziki, feta and flatbread, or a pizzette with garlic, rocket and Parmesan.

Amongst the starters, touchingly referred to as 'little dishes', there is freshly made soup, steamed asparagus with prosciutto and hollandaise, seared tuna carpaccio with pickled ginger, mirin and Asian slaw and cider braised onion tart with watercress and goats cheese. Look, too, for Black Pearl scallops when the market is right. The salads - sorry, that should read 'leaves' - offer a traditional Caesar salad with salmon, marinated anchovies and parmesan, crispy duck with mouli and spring onions in plum sauce and chicken chorizo skewers and watercress with minted cucumber raitha.

These days no self-respecting gastropub can afford to be without its pizza range; expect to find a classic Margherita of tomato, mozzarella and basil, or the challenging diavolo spiced chicken with peppadew peppers, chilli and tabasco. For those who like to build their own pizzas you can, for a modest sum, add to the basic dish with a choice from chorizo, olives, jalapenos, mushrooms, spring onion, or bacon. Or of course the whole lot if you're feeling that way.

Pastas include fettuccine with salmon, prawns, coconut, spring onions and chilli, chef's choice risotto, or penne with crab, tomato, and pepperonata. For the big event there is always a fish of the day on request. The steak burger, which has risen from the confines of fast food chains, carves a niche for itself on the menu and comes with Swiss cheese, bacon, relish and fries. For hearty eaters there are good fillet steaks with horseradish Chantilly, green beans and frites.

A wide range of supporting dishes includes buttered new potatoes, Belgian frites and mayo, and greens, leeks and peas. For those who have to be lashed to a plank to induce them to eat root vegetables, try them here, honey roasted and altogether different from the all too often pallid steamed variety.

For desserts resort to the blackboard, where there is always a good display, often with some of the local cheeses to set the buffs alight. In the bar Timothy Taylors Landlord reigns supreme, but not unchallenged, and a good wine list matches well with the excellent food.

For variations in their menu and other news about The White Hart, do click on their excellent Website. Please note that the E-Mail Contact is for enquiries only, not for bookings.