At every turn, it seems, what were once licensed premises in various forms, be they Victorian pubs, country retreats for old codgers, or boozers that had lost the plot, are being snapped up by enterprising groups, usually of young men, and transformed into something more in keeping with the aspirations of the age.

The transformations are being carried out with varying degrees of skill, but on the whole results are goods, and perhaps you could think of several in your own part of the world that have been improved beyond belief. The secret of course, is often to keep the best of what went before and combine it with the advantages of modern living. In general people do not like change overmuch unless it improves their enjoyment, and gastropubs like The White Hart can certainly lay claim to do that, located in a particularly gorgeous part of Yorkshire, and now once more the centre of village life, where traditional values are respected.

The ancient charm that pervaded before the refurbishment remains intact, and has an added lustre by the clever use of more up to date materials, colours and fittings. The ability to eat decently and without fuss is an essential part of the gastropub credo, and again The White Hart scores, with a straightforward menu packed with dishes that offer immediate appeal. Old concepts of the standard three course meal are out of the window, enjoyment of food as you would like it to be is in.

To set the right note of fashionable sociability there are sharing plates; garlic pizzette with sun-blushed tomatoes, rocket and parmesan, a box baked Camembert with red onion jam and bread, or Greek mezze with taramasalata, red pepper hummus, tzatziki, feta and flatbreads.

Amongst the starters is freshly made soup, devilled mushrooms with chilli and mint on rustic toast, and Japanese fish cakes, pickled ginger, yuzu and spring onion dipping sauce with radish slaw. Look, too, for scallops of the day. The salads - sorry, that should read 'leaves' - offer crispy duck, mouli, carrots and plum sauce, and for the seafood fiends some pastrami cured smoked salmon, Caesar, cos, parmesan, anchovies and croutons is received with enthusiasm.

These days no self-respecting gastropub can afford to be without its pizza range; expect to find margherita, a classic medley of tomato, mozzarella, oregano and basil, Siciliana with Serrano ham, roast artichoke, olives and mozzarella or rustica with roasted Mediterranean vegetables, goats? cheese, cherry tomatoes and rocket.

Pastas include bucatini carbonara with smoked haddock, pancetta and cream, or tagliatelle bolognaise with slow cooked beef, bacon and Chianti. For the big event there is Venetian calves' liver with onions, wilted spinach, parsley mash and balsamic jus. The classic burger, which has risen from the confines of fast food chains, carves a niche for itself on the menu and comes with gherkin, mustard mayo, cheese, relish and frites. For hearty eaters there are rib-eye and fillet steaks, and lemon sole with prawn and watercress butter and baby potatoes.

A wide range of supporting dishes include buttered new potatoes, Belgian frites and mayo, and cabbage, leeks and peas. Desserts are some of the best you'll encounter with apple and frangipane gallette and Cognac ice cream, and there is also a selection of local cheeses to set the buffs alight. In the bar Timothy Taylors Landlord reigns supreme, but not unchallenged, and a good wine list matches well with the excellent food.

For variations in their menu and other news about The White Hart, do click on their excellent Website. Please note that the E-Mail Contact is for enquiries only, not for bookings.