Formerly of the Hare and Hounds of this parish, Shaun and Emma Davis are now well settled in at the White Horse and bringing to it a touch of the same qualities that they invested into their previous charge. Concentrating on food which is known-fresh they extend this to the preparation of the mainly modern English cuisine which goes down so well with their faithful clientele. In 2004 The White Horse was Les Routiers Dining Pub of the Year.

A popular starter is the charcuterie plate with a celeriac and caper remoulade, though it is often a short head only behind the spicy fishcakes and sweet chilli sauce. The meat comes from Chesterton Farm Butchers near Cirencester so the rib eye steak with a wild mushroom and cracked black pepper sauce has a well proven background. Likewise the fish from Looe, delivered twice a week, encourages faith in that ever popular dish, a whole grilled lemon sole with caramelised cherry tomatoes and lemon and dill butter. The osso bucco, slowly braised with roasted shallots, makes a delightful meal for those wearying of steaks, be they buffalo, Angus or just plain old ostrich, but then back to basics is essentially a hobby for the jaded, be it palate or politics.

Beignets are very much in the shadows these days, so it is encouraging to spy the hot version served with white chocolate and crushed praline. Should something more fruity be on the wish list the warm plum and frangipane tart with vanilla ice cream may appeal, before reaching for the coffee pot. House wines at £10.75 introduce a wine list which, though relatively short, has been selected with care and imagination.