The great thing about refurbishments is, of course, to ensure that at least some of the antiquity is left, not scattered about but centred in one place. Here, as often happens, the bar has emerged triumphant, which is not to be critical of the changes elsewhere. When that same bar offers Green King IPA and Abbot Ales, well-kept at that, there really is no contest.

Breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea and dinner are all available, with an emphasis on the evenings when customers settle down to some determined enjoyment from a menu that nicely embraces old and new. Starters of devilled lamb kidneys and mushroom on toast, or salt and pepper squid with spring onion and chilli salad make a suitable background for suckling pig with roast pumpkin and apple mash, Cornish skate wing with caper butter and chips, or a confit of duck with red cabbage and bubble and squeak.

Follow with sticky toffee pudding with clotted cream, or a pineapple carpaccio with pomegranate and passionfruit sorbet. A lively wine list enhances the experience.