Whitehouse, The

Causing quite a stir in the culinary doocots of Scotland is The Whitehouse, one of whose more endearing features is that it's twenty miles down a single-track road on the Morvern peninsula, not one of the more overcrowded areas of Argyll. Far from this being seen as an obstacle, bookings from zealous gourmets are pouring in. The Whitehouse opens from April to New Year's Day and is already so popular that two sittings every evening are de rigeur.

Nor is this surprising. The secret lies in the fact that local ingredients and produce are widely used, as much for convenience as any other reason. But Sukie Barker, the notable chef, would have it no other way and her menus are bestrewn with such local delicacies as oysters, mussels, pork and venison. The local woods yield interesting fungi, wild garlic. Her husband has a smokery in which the local fish are given that subtle extra.

Such dishes as the fabulous Cullen Skink make regular appearances, as do moules marinere from Mull and grilled kippers from Oban Bay. The essence of her cooking is to allow the natural quality and flavours of the ingredients to do most of the work, with only a little help from the stoves. Her approach serves only to underline the point I am always banging on about relating to the battle between chefs with a point to make versus the ever present food of quality and integrity.

Should you be looking for something less adventurous during the day call in for some of their home made cakes, scones, tea and superb coffee. Those who know anything about the ways of the Scots with such delicacies will know this is a suggestion not to be taken lightly. There is a good wine list, and service has all the natural charm of genuine people relatively untouched by the larger, and ruder, world.