Generally regarded as having evolved from nearby Arbutus, where Chef Colin Kelly has spent the last five years working with Anthony Demetre, Wild Honey, located in the former Drones Club, shows every sign of competing at a very serious level with its sibling.

The interior left little room for the trendies to be turned loose - beautiful oak panelling with booths and banquettes to give feelings of extra intimacy and privacy.

The predominantly French menu strays enough to justify the rather wider appellation. A starter of traditional corned beef is served attractively in an airtight container with never a hint of the grosser manifestations of this oft neglected delicacy - for that is what it is in proper form. Another frequently misunderstood food form is the mackerel, served here as a starter with the traditional beetroot and horseradish.

A bavette of beef with roasted bone marrow and crushed Lyonnais potatoes lays ample claim to French culinary skills. The wild honey influence is particularly felt amongst the desserts, with ice cream of that ilk, though many seem to fall for the wild vanilla waffles with Chantilly cream and crushed warm strawberries, beautifully served.

Wine is available by the carafe or the bottle, a great idea that more restaurants might consider to their advantage.