Willow Tree

The Willow Tree was opened in September 2002 by ex-Roux Brothers Head Chef, Darren Sherlock and his partner Rita Rambellas; set in a charming 17th century Grade II Listed building with its cosy inglenook fireplace and delightful waterside terrace, The Willow Tree has proved to be an excellent choice for dinner, whatever the occasion.

The food is outstanding - a brief glance at the superb reviews on Restaurant Guide will confirm this - and the service has the perfect balance of professionalism and genuine friendliness. From a regularly changing menu a terrine of slow-cooked duck and Savoy cabbage with a fig and chervil dressing establishes at once a tone of masterly confidence that gives early auguries of the pleasures to come.

Vegetarians will find a Montgomery cheddar soufflé with a walnut and cream celery sauce, all flavours correctly balanced. A tian of ox-tongue with char-grilled aubergine and potato, onion confit and a baby chard salad introduces a note of individuality, as well as, by implication, a co-operative butcher, another good sign for later.

It is the thoughtfulness of the combinations that delights, as in home-cured organic salmon with a beetroot salad and a goat's cheese dressing, or a veloute of Jerusalem artichoke with smoked haddock and macaroni, before leading on to a star-studded array of main courses, starting with seared fillet gurnard with haricot beans, lardons and smoked paprika.

A ravioli bound with mascarpone brings together girolle and chestnuts in a sublime blend and comes to table accompanied by a warm celeriac remoulade. Guinea fowl are back on the menus of the discerning, here in the form of roast breast and thigh served with puy lentils, courgette, peppers and sage.

Their desserts are straight out of the classic box and banish with ease any thoughts there might have been of an ample sufficiency by the time the main course plates had been cleared. If ever there was a case made for an assiette of puddings it surely has to be at The Willow Tree, but I suspect they are much to well mannered for that, though the assiette does appear, bringing into play rhubarb and ginger only.

The ever faithful tarte tatin draws upon Russet apple and cardamom, served with cardamom ice cream; pistachio crème brulée with a cocoa sablé again brings the flavours together in a rather special way. True a touch of the Hestons does creep in with a warm bitter chocolate tart served with beetroot ice cream, and last but certainly by no means least we are faced with a traditional bread and butter pudding with apricot jam and vanilla ice cream.

Three courses will cost £27.50 on Tuesday and Wednesday, but on busier nights Thursday to Saturday, the price goes up by a fiver, which seems to make sound commercial sense.

Willow Tree was winner of the Remy Martin Restaurant 'Remy' and named Somerset Newcomer of the Year by the Good Food Guide in 2004. 2005 brought two AA Rosettes. Needless to say, booking is absolutely essential.