Wilson's is located above the Robin Hood Inn, offering a sophisticated and indulgent atmosphere conducive to good eating, with more than a hint of Mediterranean influence, in completely relaxed surroundings.

Warm colours blend with blues that recall memories of lazy days amidst surroundings that are light years away from the murk of an off day in Northern England. One of the more agreeable imports from these blue waters are tapas, now making a regular appearance in Britain, with some restaurants making these attractive mini-meals or large bites, however you like to look at them, a major part of the cuisine.

Wilson's have homed in enthusiastically on tapas, with two available for £10, 3 for £12, all served with ciabatta bread, ranging from mixed olives, through smoked salmon, cream cheese and dill on a crostini, to strips of chicken tossed in pesto and pine nuts.

However, this has not been to the detriment of more traditional starters where shredded duck Caesar salad with anchovies and croutons vie with tiger prawns in a lime, chilli and coconut cream, served on a crostini, or a goat's cheese and red onion tartlet, with a red currant and caramelised shallot compote.

Main courses include noisette of suckling pig, served with a black pudding and apple tart on thyme and brandy jus, excellent steaks with scorched cherry tomatoes and mushrooms, served plain or with a sauce such as roasted shallot and Burgundy. For something a little different try the venison and wild boar sausage with spring onion mash and a delightful redcurrant and whisky sauce.

Also on offer are some very popular stir-fries, or to give them their true name, fajitas; fillet steak and King prawn, chicken and duck, all served with floured tortillas, guacamole, salsa and soured cream. Four well chosen house wines are available by the glass or bottle and the list meets the aspirations of the menu with great élan, mostly at less than £25 a bottle.

Lancashire is coming into its own as an area recognised for robust and conscientious eating out, and restaurants like Wilson's are at the forefront of that movement; however, don't take our word for it, why not find out for yourself.