Wiltons Restaurant

There are some places in these still-sceptred isles that remain completely British, possibly even more defined as English, where time-honoured customs and institutions remain quietly but firmly in control, and words like confidence and reliability are completely in order.

Of such is Wiltons, part of the culinary history of London, with a long pedigree and reputation stretching back over two hundred years, during which time it has coped with removals, irascible town planners and other minor setbacks. From a stall selling oysters, shrimps and cockles in the Haymarket in 1742, Wiltons has dodged around the St James patch until, in 1984, it moved to its present site. En route in 1884 they received their first Royal Warrant as Purveyor of Oysters to Queen Victoria.

In 1930 the license was acquired by Mrs Bessie Leal, until 1942, when Olaf Hambro, who happened to be enjoying some oysters alone at the bar as a bomb landed nearby on St James's Church, Piccadilly, asked for the restaurant to be added to his bill as Mrs Leal folded her tea towel and apron and declared Wiltons closed. It reopened a week later, and to this day the restaurant is still owned by the Hambro family.

All this tradition comes at a price, and Wiltons has become synonymous with the very well-to-do, and a clientele that knows exactly what it wants, with extremely discreet service from waitresses in dresses. Wilton's Chef de Cuisine, Jérôme Ponchelle takes infinite pains to ensure that each dish delights the visual senses as well as the taste buds, and the décor is impeccable. The a la carte embraces the full range of culinary dexterity that is Wiltons, and first courses of dressed crab, smoked eel and lobster bisque also leave room for hot or cold beef consommé.

Wild turbot is served grilled or poached and Dover sole comes grilled, poached, meunière or as goujons. Top of the range is the Scottish lobster, again in four different manifestations. Whilst Wiltons is invariably associated with the fruits of the sea, their grill should by no means be overlooked, with a fine mixed grill, lamb kidneys and bacon or lamb cutlets always available.

The superb selection of British and French farmhouse cheeses may prove hard to ignore, but some traditional puddings edge their way in and sherry trifle, bread and butter pudding and apple and fig crumble always find an appreciative clientele. May Wiltons be blessed in some culinary heaven for their contribution to the survival of the savoury, with anchovies on toast, Welsh rarebit and mushrooms on toast all there to fly the flag for decent traditional dishes.

For those with time on their side and congenial company to share the pleasure, a cleverly devised tasting menu offer four options with two choices in each and deserves to be some of the best value in town in its class. Scrutiny of the wine list leaves no room for doubt that quality and discretion have guided those who had the good fortune to compile this fine selection.

Wiltons is renowned for furnishing its clientele with exceptional ingredients. You will be pleased to learn that their bespoke picnic hampers are filled with the very same fresh and wild ingredients. The baskets are individually prepared and packed in the Jermyn Street premises. They have carefully selected their most popular ingredients to provide you with "The Ultimate Picnic Basket".

The ingredients include wild hand sliced smoked Scottish salmon, hand picked white crab meat, half cold lobster, homemade potted shrimps, potato salad and leaves, white and brown bread rolls, cheeses including stilton and cheddar, carrot cake, fresh strawberries, Chablis and Champagne. The basket is made exclusively from the finest Polish whicker which also includes bespoke leather handles and monogrammed leather luggage tags. It contains plates, cutlery, cruets, glasses, napkins and linen and even a cool bag for the food and wines with an extra ice pack to keep things at the correct temperature. They supply baskets for 2 and 4 persons. Who could ask for more?

There is a great deal about Wiltons for which there is no room here. A click on their tasteful and informative Website will introduce you to Wiltons at home, private dining and, should you require further encouragement, their galaxy of awards and media acclaim.