Windsor Grill, only a stone's throw from Windsor's Long Walk, is a continuation of the Antony Worrall Thompson crusade for simple, honest food, largely British, to be served in his restaurants, using only the finest ingredients. The Grill is a welcome addition to the pleasures of this historical royal fortress town.

One of the principal attractions of the Grill is the expert attention paid to the selection of the meat courses, combined with a certain leaning towards some of the more traditional dishes as befits a decent brasserie type menu. Devilled lamb's kidneys, or bang bang chicken with peanut sauce, Mr Machin's Scottish smoked salmon and avocado prawns all carry connotations of red damask and shiny brass rails. But for many the steak tartare never fails, served as a starter or main course compete with capers, shallots, gherkins with grilled bread, and chips with the mains.

There is a culinary symmetry at work here and it is little surprise to find seared scallops, salmon and smoked haddock fishcake with buttered spinach and Hollandaise, or chilli salt squid with guacamole, sour cream, and chilli jam sitting comfortably within range of sumptuous steaks.

Few burgers have a better pedigree than those offered by AWT, and the eponymous version weighing in at 8oz is good value, made with 35 day hung Scottish beef and served on an onion bun with salad horseradish and tomato sauce, mayonnaise and skinny or chunky chips.

Six different cuts of steak start with a 10oz rib-eye, and move through a 24oz rib-chop on the bone, described as "a mega piece of meat", a modest 6oz fillet that is very tender and fat free, finishing with a 16oz Chateaubriand for two. Five different sauces give pretty total taste coverage.

That traditional piece of indulgence in the form of a classic mixed grill brings to your plate steak, lamb cutlet, pork sausage, calf's liver, dry cured bacon, lamb's kidney, black pudding, tomato and mushroom, though pork enthusiasts are likely to be sidetracked with a plate of porchetta, black pudding, sausage, belly, bacon, sage and onion stuffing and a good helping of apple chilli jelly.

A menu of daily specials explores Parma ham, grilled figs and melon salad, slow cooked duck leg served with soy and sesame Asian salad, a 9oz fillet steak, fillet of brill with a medley of greens, creamy garlic and white wine prawns, and a vegetarian dish.

One always has the feeling that desserts at a robust restaurant such as this are a bit of an afterthought, but a vanilla pannacotta, berry coulis and tuille biscuit, fresh English strawberries with pouring cream in season, or some very agreeable Wigmore soft cheese are certainly not to be ignored. Their lunch and late supper menu meet a real need in the town and at less than £15 for three courses who's to grumble?

A well selected wine list yields some intensely interesting prospects and those who like their cocktails will certainly not be disappointed. AWT these days wears the contented smile of a man who has escaped the rat race and settled down with a nice number of restaurants in each of which he can take a close interest. For further information a quick click on their Website does the trick.