Witchery by the Castle

Witchery has held legendary status in Edinburgh for what seems like forever. But in fact it was only in 1979 that James Thomson, the man who has given Scotland's capital city a major lead in establishing itself as the culinary hot spot in a country where good value in such matters had become unfashionable, set up the now internationally celebrated Witchery.

The effect has been electric, and even though new restaurants come and go in Edinburgh as they do everywhere, the staying factor somehow seems to be longer in Auld Reekie. Many would agree this is in no small part due to the standards of excellence set by the leaders. Perhaps this is the way it was following the establishment of the Edinburgh Café Royal in 1817?

Witchery started with a staff of just three. Now a team of over 200 work with James in his Collection of venues and his first year's turnover is achieved each day. As well as providing a memorable experience in eating, accommodation has been added with seven rooms, all of which are as individual and stimulating as their names - Armoury, Old Rectory and Inner Sanctum amongst them. Wall to wall decadence joins with gothic décor to provide what is rightly described as 'an unforgettably magical experience'.

However, in the nature of things a wider audience is fortunate enough to be able to enjoy the delights of the table where the very best of Scotland's produce is invoked to bring pleasure to the discerning. Lunch and dinner is served daily from an à la carte menu, with incredible light meal value offered at lunchtime and theatre suppers for a modest £12.95 for two courses.

The à la carte assembles a selection of about nine starters, for any of which most of us would gladly make almost any sacrifice, not least the Witchery fish bisque, a small seasoned steak tartare or the platter of Scottish seafood and crustacea for two on which is assembled some of Scotland's finest with a half or whole lobster to suit.

It was somehow reassuring to order terrine of wild rabbit and Toulouse sausage, served with beetroot remoulade and herb salad, to find that is still had that same distinctive taste remembered from more rustic days when they would be cooked with some immediacy, and far less skill than that deployed here. Monkfish remains one of the finest fish in the sea, or on your plate at Witchery, and with picante chorizo, baby octopus and Loch Fyne mussel stew it is indeed a dish fit for those who pass this way in search of the best and do not make their journey in vain.

A Witchery pudding selection is guaranteed to give pleasure; iced pistachio parfait with Chantilly cream and chocolate Madeleine is a combination made in heaven.

Talking of heaven leads on to the wine list which is selected by an enthusiastic team run by James Thomson himself. It embraces almost 1,000 wines, covering all the great wine producing areas, and has a special selection of seventeen available by the glass.

There are those who say that Witchery is a restaurant you should go to once in a lifetime. I can hardly agree. You should go there as often as you feel able to do so, for places like this are indeed rare, and life is for living - well. Even reading their Website will give you pleasure.