Wiveton Bell, The

Recently (2007) the subject of a major overhaul this traditional Norfolk Inn, located in one of the lushest parts of that very special county, has emerged with an image rather more in keeping with the times. However, you don't dispose of the 18th century easily and the feel of antiquity has been skilfully retained.

Inside, the pub has been opened up into a large cheerful space, a conservatory extension added on to the back, outbuildings pressed into use, all with a décor that is warm and friendly without being chic. In winter a thoroughly genuine fire radiates heat from the inglenook. An energetic staff of comely girls and friendly, efficient young men see to it that service is up to the mark.

In company with two old friends - my wife and our eldest daughter to be precise, and they don't come any friendlier than that - we arrived one Saturday evening in the mood to celebrate, to be met by Rosie who handles front of house, and were led garden-wards. Whilst I am not over-keen on conservatory additions for eating out, this one can claim to be so much a part of the original as to be a really pleasant experience with large handsome candlesticks dividing the spaces.

We ordered Thai fish cake with chilli dipping sauce, some excellent fresh soup, and ever the traditionalist I decided to make a pass at the prawn cocktail. And what a revelation it was - tiger prawns, passion fruit Marie Rose sauce and lime scented cucumber julienne, wow! straight to the right start button.

Time for a browse amongst the main courses and Hazel headed unerringly for the chicken breast with a wild mushroom and tarragon sauce. The chicken was free-range and superb. On the way up the lane we had walked past one of the locals, strategically placed behind a hedge with his gun sighted on a promising looking rabbit warren. Free range bunny indeed, sometimes to be met à la table at the Bell we were given to understand.

Fiona and I, with equal certainty chose the Thai green curry, fillets of chicken cooked slowly in a blend of ginger, green chillies, coriander, lemon grass and lime on a timbale of basmati rice. I could have wished for a slightly thicker consistency, to distinguish it more firmly from other Thai dishes; otherwise it was unbeatable for flavour.

Three first rate desserts, one of which was a convincing crème brûlée rounded off a thoroughly enjoyable meal, with a wine list that stood up well alongside the cuisine. Our Chilean Merlot and some Sancerre were both a credit to their makers.

Behind the bar, apart from Joe, Mikey and Amy, keep an eye open for Peter Yetman's Holt beer, brewed in the nearby Georgian market town of that name, as well as Adnam's Broadside. Advance booking, especially during the summer, is advised.

The Wiveton Bell is enjoying a popularity that I suspect will survive its relative newness and the height of the season. It's certainly quite a while since we had enjoyed such a quality meal in surroundings that soothed and relaxed so ably. Its location in a well heeled and highly attractive part of Norfolk should combine with the quality of the restaurant to ensure this.

Further information, menu changes and directions, including details of their "Best Food Pub 2007" Award, are only a click away on their straightforward Website .