Garry Hewitt, who used to work at Hart's, brings his expertise to bear at World Service, where the ambience is oriental but the food in the main leans slightly more towards Europe than the Pacific. He uses first-class ingredients to produce such eclectic gems as Indian spiced scallops with piccalilli, yoghurt, poppadom and apple, or pan-fried cod with chickpea puree, brandade croquette and a pepperdew and lemon salsa; the execution of these dishes is aided by Sous Chef Andrew Lincoln.

The bar is quite a local destination now, concentrating on offering a wide range of wines by the glass, spirits from every nation imaginable and their own speciality cocktails, all offered in a richly different setting.

Those who knew the Nottingham United Services Club may be surprised to hear that it has consolidated on the upper floors of its elegant Georgian house, leaving World Service to set up on the ground floor, where it quickly earned its award of Nottinghamshire Newcomer of the Year.

There is a choice of three separate dining areas, two of which are also available for private hire; their lunch menu, which changes daily, represents excellent value whilst still remaining as inventive as the rest of their food.

Amongst the menus, which vary according to the time of the year, is a wide variety of dishes that are designed to blend with the gracious interior of this extraordinary house, a real survival of the gracious city that went before.

Starters of bresaola with pickled shimeji mushrooms, manchego cheese and plum membrillo; seared tuna loin with wasabi mayonnaise and pickled vegetables, or sweet potato and sage soup, all pave the way for main dishes that could include butter poached chicken breast with roast garlic, parsley and lemon risotto and Caesar dressed leaves; turbot with cauliflower, samphire, potato gnocchi and red wine sauce, and rabbit loin in bacon with lentils and confit leg tian.

The side dishes sound equally compelling, mange tout with shallot butter, minted new potatoes, and home-made fries. Puddings of chocolate pave with pistachio and spiced orange sorbet, or sticky toffee pudding with clotted cream ice cream and caramel sauce make a gracious end to a meal prepared and served with impeccable taste.

They boast a masterful wine list with eighteen available by the glass; all helping to increase the enjoyment derived from this smooth-running and promising place, which gained the accolade of overall restaurant of the year in the Nottingham Restaurant Awards for a staggering four years out of seven: 2003, 2004 and 2005 and 2007. They also have recognition from The Good Food Guide, and, at the end of 2006, they gained a second rosette from the AA.

Far more information can be gleaned from their Website, including very full details on their menus and huge choice of drinks.