Yanwath Gate Inn, The

The Yanwath Gate enjoyed an excellent reputation through all the years that Iain and Susan Rhind dispensed good food, notable wines and ample charm, much of which disappeared when they left. Now, however, after a brief interlude, Matt Edwards and Marta Bakinowska have taken over and to say things are looking up would be the understatement of the year. They re-opened on the weekend of the Lowther Driving Trials and , predicatably, were swamped.

After an uncharacteristically dispiriting experience with Lakeland food, earlier in our October weekend, we were lucky to be able to book for dinner. From the moment guests walk through the door they are enfolded by the genuine welcome offered by Matt and his team. Nothing is too much trouble. Everything came to the table as though some choreographer was masterminding the process behind the scenes - perhaps they were? A request to have an item from the by then defunct lunch menu was met with aplomb. It was seafood chowder, a variation on the Scottish cullen skink and it was superb, with mussels in their shells all part of the fun. The mussels also came in their own right with a choice of dressings, and chilli, coconut and lemongrass turned out to be a wise choice. Mussels are a staple item at The Gate, and are served as tapas, a starter or main course.

The marinated and braised shoulder of lamb was cooked to perfection and was accompanied by honeyed parsnip mash, with mint, honey and rosemary jus. Amongst other main courses was a trio of bangers and mash, with venison, pork and orange and peppered beef on a creamy mash with red currant gravy, or red mullet with baby vegetables, buttered noodles, pancetta and tomato pesto. Also popular was the fillet of locally reared beef with roast shallots and red wine gravy. A blackboard of desserts resulted in the bread and butter pudding, combined with white chocolate to make a dreamy, melt-in-the-mouth confection of compulsive appeal.

Service was genuinely friendly and never anything but efficient. A wine list of around 30 bins is equally divided between reds and whites, rarely exceeds £20 and contains some clever choices. Coffee and drinks were served at our request in the bar afterwards where a good mix of locals and guests enjoyed each other's company in thoroughly relaxed surroundings. This is a place which over the years has had a wealth of investment, not just in money but particularly in time, expertise and hard graft. There is no doubt in my mind that the team now in place will see to it that the Gate at Yanwath capitalises on that input, and they go on my "places to watch" list with no hesitation.