Yi-Ban - Chelsea

It has long been a mystery to me why it has taken so long for sophisticated Chinese, Cantonese or whatever definition you like to give it, to become more than just an alternative. Anyone who truly likes Chinese, and they are many, must surely be able to appreciate the nuances of flavour and texture that exist between them? Anyway, at Yi-Ban it is in good measure, starting with the décor, which marries up nicely with the delicate and mature Chinese inclinations of cuisine.

Diners can sit around the cooking area. I think if I was a chef I might find this slightly un-nerving but perhaps it comes into the same category as banging your head against the nearest wall. For those doing the watching there is a range of 40 serious cocktails which may account for some concentration loss too.

Starters include dim sum platters, then on to orange duck, a hearty sizzling black pepper steak, or seafood dishes of XO scallops; whole stir-fried lobster, or steamed sea bass with ginger and spring onions. Prices are, frankly, not for the faint-hearted, but they seldom are for this quality of presentation, and the service is almost beyond praise.

A variety of affordable set menus are offered.